Browsing: technique

Welcome to Play Smart, a regular GOLF.com game-improvement column that will help you become a smarter, better golfer.

I’ve played muni golf all my life. I was never a country-club kid and even the courses I practiced at in high school were rough around the edges. Range balls with worn-down dimples. Putting greens that looked like shag carpet. That was the norm.

These less-than-ideal conditions forced me to learn how to hit some shots that I otherwise wouldn’t have. Lobs off hardpan. Chips out of divots. Putts through craters on the greens. You get the picture.

By the time I started working in golf and got access to nicer practice facilities, I’d taught myself quite a few handy shots. However, after all those years, one shot still eluded me: the short-sided bunker shot from firm sand.

Luckily for me, one of our Top 100 Teachers, Joe Plecker, grew up as a muni kid himself. And when I approached him wanting to know more about how to properly execute this shot, he was quick to teach me his secrets.

An easy technique for an impossible shot

When I faced a short-sided bunker shot from hard sand, I always got sick to my stomach. I knew I was either going to skid the club into the back of the ball or overcorrect and catch too much sand and leave it in the bunker.

With hard sand, it’s important to get a steep angle of attack to get the clubhead to enter the sand and blast the ball out. But when you do this, it can be easy to get the leading edge stuck and catch too much sand.

To execute the shot properly, Plecker suggests setting up in two parts. First, you want a setup that promotes a steep angle of attack. Second, you want to grip the club in a way that ensures an open clubface.

For the first element, Plecker says to set up with your upper body tilted toward the target.

“This upper body forward position is going to help us maintain a very steep angle [of attack],” Plecker says.

After that, it’s time to place your hands on the grip. Plecker likes to see a very neutral grip with the lead hand for this.

“I want to see your lead hand in a neutral position,” Plecker says. “Imagine your left hand is pointed right down the top line of the grip. That’s your finesse position, meaning it’s a heck of a lot easier from there to twist the club open.”

From here, all you’ve got to do is focus on twisting and hinging the club to the top. Don’t feel like you are making a bid, full-body turn.

“This is the secret to hitting a finesse bunker shot,” Plecker says. “The first move is to cast that club.”

If you do it correctly, the club will carve into the sand and pop the ball up and out of the bunker.

Golf instruction is ever-evolving, but the best advice stands the test of time. In GOLF.com’s new series, Timeless Tips, we’re highlighting some of the greatest advice teachers and players have dispensed in the pages of GOLF Magazine. Today we look back to our December 1988 issue for a putting tip from Paul Azinger.

Putting can be a maddening skill to struggle with. Although it typically constitutes the shortest strokes, mastering your touch on the greens can at times feel impossible. Even the pros have difficulty with it from time to time.

One such example? Twelve-time PGA Tour winner Paul Azinger. In the mid-1980s, Zinger had yet to win on Tour and ranked outside the top 100 in putting. So, he turned to fellow pro Corey Pavin for some help.

What Pavin shared with Azinger was an unconventional putting grip and technique to use on the greens. And although it looked a little funky, it was highly effective. After putting the grip in play, he started stacking up wins, culminating in a major victory at the 1993 PGA Championship.

In the midst of Azinger’s putting resurgence, he joined GOLF Magazine to show our readers how the funky technique worked — and how they could implement it into their own games. Check it out below.

Azinger’s unique putting technique

This is my putting grip [below]. Pretty strange looking, right? It may look weird, but it works. When I picked it up from fellow Tour pro Corey Pavin late in 1985, I ranked 134th on the list of putting leaders; this year, I rank fourth.

I recommend this grip, especially if you think your putting stroke is too wristy or if you want the putter to feel like an extension of the left arm.

First I’ll explain how to take the grip. As you practice it, read on: I also have some unorthodox thoughts on the stroke and a strategy for holing more putts that differs from most pros’.

Paul Azinger’s putting grip.

GOLF Magazine

To take the grip, place your left hand on the club in a very weak position, the palm almost under the handle. The right hand goes on very strong, also underneath, so the fleshy heel of the hand covers the left middle and ring fingers. Extend the left index finger over the back of the right hand so the tip lies between the two middle knuckles. Be sure the left thumb falls over the right fingers, not on the shaft.

The main advantage of this grip is that it stabilizes the left wrist so the left arm and putter shaft work as one. With the wrist locked, neither hand dominates the action. This keeps the putterface square to the target line as you draw the club back and swing through.

But the grip isn’t all I do differently. I like to “zing” the ball with a short rap, not a long, flowing swing. I never worry about how long to make a backswing. Instead, I stand over the ball and imagine the line I want to roll the ball on running away from the front of the ball, then I “pop” it along that line. I make sure to follow through toward the hole, and I hold my finish position — the blade up and away — instead of recoiling.

My stroke may be firm, but I’m not an aggressive putter, that is, I don’t try to bang the ball home by bouncing it off the back of the cup. To do that, you must roll it right over the center of the hole, and if you’re off by just a little, the ball will most likely lip out. I stroke softly enough so that if the ball doesn’t catch the hole dead-center, it still has a chance of catching the lip and dropping in.

Charging the hole has another drawback: A long second putt. If you miss an aggressive putt, you’ll probably face a three or four footer coming back. When my soft putts miss, I have only an eight to 10 incher to negotiate. If my second putt is longer than that, I feel I’ve hit it too hard. My feeling is that if I miss my birdie, I prefer to have an easy tap-in left instead of a missable three footer to grind on. I would rather have a “gimme” par putt than risk a three-putt bogey.

My plans change slightly on long putts. With 40 or more feet to cover, I try to get the ball within a two-foot-wide bucket around the hole. And while I normally don’t like to leave the ball short of the hole, I don’t mind a long one finishing a little shy, so long as ’m left with nothing more than a two-footer for my second putt.

A case sometimes made against rolling the ball softly on short, pressure putts is that it’s more reliable when you’re nervous to make the firmest stroke possible and bang the ball into the back of the cup. I don’t buy that argument because you still have to hit the hole squarely to make the ball drop. I still prefer to make a soft approach even on the most crucial putts, thanks to a pre-shot routine I’ve developed to calm my nerves. I control my breathing: I inhale to a slow, leisurely count of four, then exhale to a count of four. If you’ve ever watched me walking up the fairway to face a pressure putt, you can be sure I’m doing this, and that I continue to do it while I prepare for the stroke.

This routine calms my pounding heart, which helps me avoid making any nervous, jerky motions that could interfere with the stroke. The routine also gives me something to think about as I get ready, helping take my mind off the pressure of having to make the putt.

Golf instruction is ever-evolving, but the best advice stands the test of time. In GOLF.com’s new series, Timeless Tips, we’re highlighting some of the greatest advice teachers and players have dispensed in the pages of GOLF Magazine. Today we have a fairway bunker tip from Gary Player from our June 1971 issue.

Fairway bunkers are scary hazards. With deep valleys and high lips, reaching the green feels all but impossible. Heck, sometimes just getting out feels like a win.

When you’re in the fairway bunker, you’ve got to be extremely precise. If your contact is anything but near perfection, the ball will not react the way you need it to. It’s a shot that most recreational players have little idea how to hit. They simply swing and hope.

It doesn’t have to be this way, though. With a few technique adjustments, you can hit fairway bunker shots that will make your playing partners swoon.

In the text below, we’ve pulled an article from the June 1971 issue of GOLF Magazine in which Gary Player shares his best advice for hitting from a fairway bunker. Follow it and your struggles from the sand traps off the fairway will be a thing of the past.

Gary Player’s fairway bunker advice

I’ve seen people enter the fairway bunker as though they were stepping into a snake pit, swing so fast the club looks like a propeller at full rev, then, once they do get the ball out, run after it as if they were escaping a forest fire. There need not be such apprehension.

The key to the shot is the word “fairway.” When you’re faced with a middle or long iron from a bunker, the shot should be played almost exactly as it would be from clipped grass. The ball must be struck first, the divot taken afterward. Repeat: The ball must be struck first!

In aid of this, I do make one compensation in my mental approach to the shot that might be helpful. I look at the front of the ball instead of the back, figuring that if I do make a mistake it’s better to hit it thin rather than catch sand before contacting the ball.

Now let’s get down to the specifics of the stroke.

Address

As with any shot, setting up is very important. However, a little extra care is called for here because the footing is different than you normally have on grass. Since you are dealing with loose material, you must dig in solidly to avoid body sway. This can be done by rotating the feet once you have determined their placement. I like to favor the inside of the right foot in fixing the entire right side firmly. Since you are going to take the full swing you would from the fairway, the ball should be played slightly left of center, with the hands forward of the clubhead. The weight should be primarily on the left side. You need not, however, overdo any of these. The phrase to keep in mind is, “Be Natural.”

Takeaway

The backswing should be in the conventional plane, but you should avoid any excessive weight transfer to the right side. Be sure to extend the club fully on the way back. The turn should be primarily with the hips, but don’t let too much body turn pull your feet from their implanted position. On top the club is in the proper horizontal position.

You don’t have to overswing on this shot for if you make proper contact with the ball it will go just as far as it would from off the fairway grass. To insure that I have completed the backswing, and to prevent rushing the shot out of fear, I feel my hands fully cocked at the top of the swing.

Downswing

The move back to the ball is the same pulling action that you employ for all shots, with the hands remaining cocked and the clubhead lagging behind. There has been a definite move to the left side, developed by pushing the right knee significantly toward the left.

The ball gets struck first, and then the sand “divot” is taken. Notice that the head is fixed over the spot where the ball had rested, and that my weight is very much to the left side. However, there has been no body sway because my left foot is still firmly implanted in the sand. Because the ball has been played from a conventional position in relation to the feet, the club is able to move easily through to the target. Only after the ball is well on its way to the green does the right hand begin to turn over. My head will come up to follow the flight of the ball only after the follow through is nearly completed.

How to practice

Just before the British Open in 1959, I had serious doubts as to my ability to even compete. It seemed that I hit every other shot “heavy” in the practice rounds, and couldn’t seem to get anywhere from the treacherous fairway bunkers at Muirfield, in Scotland. I spent one evening hitting practice shots off the sand on a nearby beach and quickly taught myself to catch the ball first, not just out of the sand, but in the fairway as well.

What I did was draw a line in the sand, place the back of the ball on the line, and then hit the shot. If contact was made correctly, the line would still be there after the ball was sailing on down the beach. This little tip enabled me to regain my confidence, and I went on to not only complete, but win the event.

Golf instruction is ever-evolving, but the best advice stands the test of time. In GOLF.com’s new series, Timeless Tips, we’re highlighting some of the greatest advice teachers and players have dispensed in the pages of GOLF Magazine. Today, we look back at our July 1992 issue where Fred Couples shared his secrets for hitting a high, soft pitch shot.

Shots around the green are always easier when you’ve got plenty of room to work with. Unfortunately, you won’t always be afforded that luxury. Sometimes, you have no choice but to try to loft the ball high and land it soft.

This is a shot that’s thrilling to try, but difficult to execute. If you don’t quite clip it right, you’ll dump it short or blade it over the green. The contact has to be close to perfect if you want the ball to settle near the hole.

These shots look quite easy when the pros try them, but for weekend warriors, the shot is anything but simple. Luckily for you, learning how to hit the high-lofted pitch is easier than you may think.

Back in the July 1992 issue of GOLF Magazine, Dick Harmon explained Fred Couples‘ secrets for easily executing the shot, which you can read below.

How to hit a high-lofted pitch

There’s no denying the wedge’s role in Fred Couples’ fantastic year. So far: A wedge to two feet turns up the heat on Davis Love III on the first hole of the L.A. Open playoff; a wedge to within a foot of the hole forces a playoff with Corey Pavin at the Nestle; a wedge stops three inches from the cup on the third hole in the final round at Augusta, jump-starting a sluggish round into a victorious one.

Fred’s wedge play is unique (and brilliant) because unlike some pros, who hit low, spinning shots that skip once on the green, then scoot backward, Fred launches his ball high into the air with less backspin. The ball floats upward, then drops nearly straight down, stopping almost immediately. Fred never has to factor “action” into his distance equation: He throws the ball right at the pin, knowing it’s going to stay there.

You may not have problems spinning your wedge shots back from the pin, but chances are you’ve had a few roll farther forward than you planned. Wouldn’t it be nice to know that the ball is going to stop where it lands?

GOLF Magazine

The key to a high-flying, soft-landing wedge is something golfers have traditionally been told to avoid: a loop. Look at the sequence of Couples’ swing above. Standing with his feet pointed left of the target, Couples brings the club back outside the target line, as if he were planning to cut across the ball. Then, in an effortless, almost lazy motion, the club drops to the inside and swings from inside-to-out relative to his feet, but square to the target. The result is a shallow angle of attack and a clubface that is laid back slightly, adding loft.

You might notice that Couples’ swing with a wedge looks no different than his swing with any other club. He takes the club outside the line with everything from sand wedge to driver, then drops it inside as he makes his powerful move down and through the ball. Taking it back outside the line for full shots is a move I’d recommend only for the good player, who has the ability to reroute the club to the inside coming down. Keep your loop limited to the wedge if you have any doubts. That’s where it’s easiest to pull off, and where it will do you the most good.

Start with your feet pointed 20 to 30 degrees left of the target and the ball off your left heel. Be sure, as always, to coil your upper body as your arms swing the club outside the line to the top. Then let your arms drop to the inside. Gravity takes over from here, pulling the club into the ball. Don’t force it: You should have a feeling of slipping the club under — rather than crunching down upon — the ball.

Slipping the club under the ball is easiest from a fluffy lie, so stay in the light rough until you feel comfortable with the move. Once you have it down, try it from a tighter fairway lie.

Why it works

Most golfers hit their wedge shots with a steep up-and-down swing. The descending blow, made with the blade square, creates a “pinching” impact that can create unpredictable action when the ball hits the green.

Fred’s wedge shot also begins with an upright backswing, but the “loop” at the top brings the club sweeping through impact on an inside-to-out path. The face is more laid-back, adding loft without the pinching action that imparts extra backspin. The result is a high shot that stops quickly after landing.

The game’s most prolific gear nerd is at it again.While we’re still a day away from the first round of…

Do any of these scenarios feel familiar to you?

• Youâ€re new to using long pips rubbers.
• Youâ€re thinking about swapping your inverted rubber for a long pimple one.
• Youâ€ve been using long pimple rubbers for a while now but want to win more matches.

Well, this page is just for you.

Iâ€m sharing my journey of learning to use long pimple rubbers, going from a total beginner to an advanced player playing top divisions in China and Spain.

I’m hoping my experiences will give you some solid advice and help you feel more confident as you get used to playing with long pips. If you’re looking for equipment, check out my article on the best blades for long pimples.

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The Effects of Long Pimples

If we take a close look at the appearance and structure of long pips rubber, thereâ€s a clear difference to normal inverted rubbers as the pimples face outward. Theyâ€re not covered by a flat sheet of rubber.

The primary factor that sets long pips rubbers apart from other types of rubbers is the way they interact with the ball. The long, flexible, outward-faced pimples bend and flex upon contact with the ball, leading to a range of unique effects:

• Spin Reversal: When the ball hits a long pips rubber, the incoming spin is absorbed and returned with a reversed spin. For example, if the ball comes in with topspin, it will be returned with backspin, and vice versa. This spin reversal is a key element of the long pips playing style and is responsible for the disruptive effect on opponents’ rhythm. Itâ€s the primary feature that long pimple players should take advantage of.
• Reduced Speed: The flexible pimples also absorb some of the ball’s energy upon contact, leading to a reduction in speed. This can make it difficult for opponents to generate continuous powerful attacking shots and can force them to adapt their tactics. In many cases, offensive players may miss the ball when exerting a loop shot as the ball suddenly slows down and drops quickly.
• Variable Spin and Trajectory: The flexibility and varying characteristics of long pimples can create unpredictable spin and ball trajectories. This unpredictability can be both an advantage and a challenge, as it requires players to develop a deep understanding of their rubber’s behavior to control and exploit these effects. I find that some beginners even themselves donâ€t have a clear idea what spin their shots have. As long pimple players, we must develop a more profound understanding of our shots than our opponents.

Learning to Play With Long Pimples

I’d like to share with you my experience of learning different techniques for playing with long pips when I was a child.

I’m sure you’ve read countless tutorial blogs or watched numerous table tennis videos on YouTube about long pips shots. However, if you don’t have a professional long pips coach, you may not have a clear idea of how to learn these techniques systematically.

Let me introduce you to several common techniques and provide guidance on the correct order in which to learn them, gradually building your skills.

Blocking with Long Pimples

Blocking is the first technique that I learned after changing the inverted rubber into long pips. It is the most basic skill that we defensive players have to master as we have to block strong topspin from our opponents.

The technique of blocking with long pips is slightly different from other traditional types of rubbers.

To execute a block with long pips, it’s important to keep your racket angle open and make contact with the ball using a vertical stroke. Focus on maintaining a fluid movement and a consistent racket face to achieve better control over the ball.

Interestingly, I found blocking with long pips to be very easy when I was a child. I could easily block back attacking shots without any difficulty. However, as I grew older, I began to find it gradually more difficult to deal with powerful topspin shots.

This is because, as we age, most players become stronger and are able to generate topspin with greater speed and power. As a result, it’s become quite challenging for long pips users to defend against such opponents.

Here are my top 2 tips based on my experience to help improve your use of long pips in table tennis when blocking:

1) Think about your timing

Timing is crucial when blocking with long pips.

The optimal time to block using this rubber is when the ball first hits the table and players should hit the ball just after the bounce. This technique is similar to executing a chop block with inverted rubber.

The motion should be fast enough in order to avoid being impacted by strong spin. Otherwise, the ball may easily fly off the table.

2) Raise your heels

My favorite piece of advice is to raise your heels slightly and lift the racket a bit higher to hit the ball from top to bottom.

This detail of raising your heels is essential as it helps to cushion and absorb the strong impact and power from the incoming ball. There’s no need to use too much force when contacting the ball yourself or it may easily go out of bounds.

Simply tap the ball lightly from top to bottom, similar to painting a wall.

Pushing with Long Pimples

Pushing is a fundamental skill in table tennis when using long pips rubber, particularly when playing near the table. While similar to pushing with traditional inverted rubbers, there are slight differences to consider.

Firstly, it’s important to note that when pushing with long pips, the backspin generated is typically reduced, often resulting in a dead ball without spin. This is a crucial point to remember, as opponents may make use of it by serving with backspin and preparing for their next attacking shot.

Therefore, it’s essential to learn another type of push.

By opening the racket angle and making it more vertical, you can execute a harder push. Personally, I prefer using this technique to return serves, as it enables a faster ball with a slight topspin.

The spin variation can confuse opponents and lead them to make mistakes. This shot is more aggressive and can even be used for attacking.

Sidespin Attack with Long Pimples

After mastering the two fundamental defensive shots using long pips near the table, some players develop the desire to incorporate attacking shots into their game. However, attacking with long pips rubber can prove to be a challenging task, both for the player attempting the shot and for their opponents.

Playing attacking shots is difficult because the ball tends to float and descend rapidly, adding an element of risk to the shot. Despite this, it is worth attempting due to its potential effectiveness at forcing your opponent out of their rhythm.

The sidespin attack is not a conventional stroke, especially as it does not have a counterpart in the techniques used with inverted rubbers.

To execute this shot, players need to laterally brush the ball with their racket. As the opponent’s shot approaches, the racket should be positioned to the side of the ball, ensuring that the pips make contact with the ball at an angled position.

This particular shot can be especially valuable when the opponent serves a short shot on the forehand side. In such instances, I usually step forward, slightly shift towards the right, and employ a backhand stroke to hit the ball. My contact will brush the sides of the ball with an upward motion.

The ball will then return to the opponent’s forehand side, with a relatively fast speed and low trajectory. Consequently, this puts the opponent in a highly uncomfortable position, leaving them with limited time to react.

In addition, long pimples players have the option to execute a sidespin attack from their backhand side. Performing long and forceful attacks can significantly unsettle your opponent, so it is a shot worth practicing.

Chopping with Long Pimples

Chopping is considered a relatively advanced technique that not all long pips players choose to learn or master.

Many players are unwilling to engage in a game style that requires them to play far away from the table, as it demands significant movement and can be quite exhausting. Additionally, mastering the art of chopping requires a substantial amount of practice time.

In my opinion, if one desires to become a proficient chopper or utilize it as a primary weapon in their games, it is advantageous to begin learning it at a young age.

Unfortunately, this means that many individuals miss the optimal learning period. It is relatively easier to master blocking or pushing shots with long pips rubber, which may only take several weeks or months of practice. However, chopping needs years of dedicated training and application in real game situations. It is indeed a challenging endeavor.

Nevertheless, once mastered, chopping can greatly disrupt and harm opponents. It generates a significant amount of strong backspin, making it exceedingly difficult for opponents to return the ball effectively. Sometimes, even attempting a push can result in the ball failing to clear the net.

The majority of long pips players employ chopping techniques with their backhand. The motion itself is not overly complicated. Simply raise the racket over the shoulder and fully cut through the ball as it approaches. The challenging aspect lies in handling powerful and fast loops from opponents, which requires extensive practice to effectively deal with.

Serving with Long Pips

Serving with long pips is often neglected by many players. In fact, in most local leagues, opponents are likely to have no clue how to effectively return a serve with long pips.

Interestingly, using a mix of serves using long pips and inverted rubbers can bewilder opponents and lead to winning points directly.

It is worth noting that serves with long pips typically result in a dead ball (without any spin), with a slight tendency to float along and drop quickly towards the end of the trajectory. However, if your opponent is an advanced player with ample experience against long pips, these serves may not pose much of a threat to them.

In fact, advanced players will likely launch direct attacking shots in response.

Therefore, my advice is to initially attempt one or two serves in order to tell the skill level of your opponents at the start of the game. Against advanced players, you want to keep your serves short so that the ball would always bounce twice on your opponentâ€s side.

Winning Match Strategies with Long Pimples

Once you have mastered the various fundamental shots with long pips, the next crucial step is to apply them strategically during matches.

Here are three tips that I frequently employ in games, which have proven to be effective and have even helped me secure victories against formidable offensive players.

Start From Serves

One important aspect of utilizing long pips is to focus on serving. This includes both serving the ball and returning the opponent’s serves.

As mentioned previously, players can incorporate a combination of serves using long pips and inverted rubbers, utilizing backspin, topspin, and dead balls.

If the opponent lacks experience, they can easily become confused and make mistakes. In fact, during my early table tennis lessons, my coach emphasized that there is nothing simpler than scoring a point directly from a well-executed serve.

Another crucial aspect is diversifying the ways in which we return serves. Initially, I used to rely solely on pushing the ball with my long pips, even when the ball was directed towards my forehand side.

This approach was convenient as I didn’t have to read the spin, but it had its drawbacks. My opponents became aware of the spin and could fully prepare for their shots in advance. Consequently, upon heeding my coach’s advice, I began returning serves in various ways, including chopping, blocking, pushing, and occasionally using inverted rubber.

This mixed return approach rendered my opponents extremely uncomfortable and created ample opportunities for me to control points during the game.

Twiddling the Paddle

“Twiddling the paddle†refers to the technique of changing the side of the racket used during a rally in table tennis.

Initially, when my coach introduced me to this technique, I was reluctant to use it. I considered it troublesome and time-consuming. However, as I observed many advanced long pips players employing this technique in league matches, I realized its effectiveness.

When trying it myself in match scenarios, I discovered the value of twiddling.

For instance, after executing an exhausting chop from the backcourt and my opponent returns the ball with a backspin push, twiddling the paddle becomes crucial. By switching to the inverted rubber, I can effectively push the ball back with spin and prevent it from becoming a dead ball, making it harder for my opponent to launch a direct attack. I had lost numerous points in this scenario before mastering the twiddling technique.

Furthermore, in situations where the ball is high and falls in my backhand area, and I don’t have sufficient time to move and execute a forehand shot, and smashing with long pips also seems complicated, twiddling the paddle allows me to perform a backhand smash with the inverted rubber.

Twiddling the paddle has provided me with increased versatility and adaptability during matches. But one tip I want to say is that when buying the paddle, try to choose one with a straight handle so that you can switch more smoothly.

Attacking Short Balls

When the ball is received short during a table tennis rally, attacking with long pips can be an effective strategy. A fast, floated return using long pips creates huge difficulties for opponents to return it.

I often employ this tactic during games, capitalizing on the advantage provided by long pips rubber.

One approach I enjoy using is to play a sidespin attack with long pips, imparting a unique spin and trajectory that can catch opponents off guard.

Now, what should we do when the ball is longer? The answer is to continue attacking! If you possess strong looping skills with inverted rubbers, simply lift the ball up. However, if you are a defensive player like myself, I recommend employing chopping techniques or twiddling the paddle to push the ball back with inverted rubber. Remember, a chop isnâ€t only a defensive shot.

This is particularly effective against advanced players, as it minimizes their opportunities for direct attacks.

By adopting these strategies, you can make the most of short balls during a rally, disrupting your opponent’s game plan and gaining an advantage in the match

Xinyu started playing table tennis when he was 8 years old in China and he’s also the owner of popular table tennis blog ppongsuper . He has trained with the Chinese provincial team and now plays competitively in the Spanish national league. He’s constantly striving to improve his skills and tactical abilities, as well as deepen his understanding of table tennis. He joined the Racket Insight team to share his passion and promote table tennis to more people!

Blade: Nexy Joo Sae Hyuk | Forehand:Butterfly Sriver FX | Backhand: Dawei 388d-1
Playstyle: The Defender

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The chop is a crucial defensive stroke in table tennis, usually used as an effective weapon by defensive player styles. It relies on heavy backspin to make the ball difficult for the opponent to return.

A well-executed chop can disrupt your opponent’s rhythm and give you an opportunity to seize control of the game. It requires precision, timing, and excellent footwork to be effective.

Being able to perform effective, consistent chops can be the difference between winning and losing. I posted a video on Reddit about chopping and was asked by many players how they could learn to chop like the featured national team player.

This article is my answer to that question, showing you 7 ways you can turn your chop into a match-winning weapon.

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1. Impart Strong Backspin on the Ball

An effective chop in table tennis generates very strong backspin with an extremely low arc. That makes it extremely difficult for your opposing player to lift back over the net.

To generate powerful backspin, you fundamentally need to brush the ball with a thin contact between the rubber and the ball. The faster and more vertical your stroke, the more backspin you’ll produce.

Youâ€ll immediately be able to notice that this playerâ€s technique cuts down on the ball very quickly the moment his racket makes contact with the ball. In particular, he is actually using a ‘long pips†rubber on the backhand, helping make the ball float with exceptionally heavy spin.

When you impart super strong backspin on the ball during a chop like this, it forces the ball to have a lower trajectory over the net. This makes it more challenging for your opponent to attack the ball aggressively, as they must lift it higher to clear the net. Sometimes when the ball is a little bit higher, it would leave the ball open to a counter-attack.

Apart from that, a ball with backspin tends to slow down after bouncing, making it more difficult for your opponent to generate speed and power in their return shot. This forces them to generate their own pace, which can lead to mistakes and less effective attacking shots.

To build this technique yourself, you have to practice this motion repeatedly with both forehand and backhand strokes. Only through repetition will you perfect your backspin and make your chops harder to return.

2. Master the Timing

Like all the other strokes, shot timing is an important issue when you are chopping.

You want to aim to contact the ball just after the ball has reached its peak height and starts to descend. This timing allows you to apply maximum backspin and control on the shot, making it more difficult for your opponent to return.

A common mistake made by beginners is staying too far away from the table when attempting chop shots.

This is problematic because when the ball is returned shorter than expected, it becomes difficult to execute the chop in a timely manner. The ball is falling and losing speed quickly. As a result, itâ€s likely the chop will impart insufficient backspin and have a higher trajectory.

Therefore, you need to constantly adjust your positioning during chop shots to find the peak of the bounce when executing your shots.

If the ball starts to descend and youâ€ve already missed the ideal moment to chop it, my recommendation is to strike the bottom and side of the ball simultaneously. In these instances, your returns will have a slightly higher trajectory, but they will possess an unusual combination of spins.

The shot will have both backspin and sidespin, making it similar to a snake shot that changes its trajectory after landing on the table. This unpredictable movement and the strange spin can effectively confuse your opponent.

3. Adjust the Angle of Your Paddle

Like with most table tennis strokes, applying a different racket angle will lead to a different outcome. Choppers must experiment with different paddle angles to determine the one that best suits their playing style.

When you use a closed paddle angle (which means the paddle is tilted slightly forward) you create a faster and lower chop. This type of chop is more aggressive and requires your opponent to react quickly.

If you watch the video of Chen Weixing, you will find that many of his shots are like this. The returns are really quick and profound, forcing his opponents to make mistakes.

On the other hand, when you opt for a more open paddle angle (where the paddle is tilted slightly backward), the result is a slower, higher chop with increased backspin. This type of chop gives the ball a higher trajectory over the net and generates more backspin.

Your opponents will have to make a greater effort to lift the ball due to its reduced speed, but their advantage is that they will have sufficient time to prepare for the shot.

Apart from that, a vertical angle can generate some sidespin at times when youâ€re chopping with an inverted rubber. This sidespin adds an extra element of unpredictability to your shots, making it even more challenging for your opponent to anticipate and return the ball effectively.

In my experience, I prefer to mix these angles during both training sessions and matches. The goal is to keep my opponent uncomfortable and prevent them from adapting to my playing style. They might find themselves thinking, “What the hell spin is this, and why is it so strange?”.

You see, this type of shot not only leads to errors and lost points for your opponent but can also mentally defeat them, causing them to lose confidence in their own abilities.

4. Incorporate Body Movement

To maximize the power and effectiveness of your chops in table tennis, it’s crucial to involve your entire body in the stroke.

Many beginners, including my younger self, tend to chop the ball using only their arm. In fact, understanding how to harness the power of the entire body is what sets advanced players apart from average ones.

You should consider the movement across your entire body. Each element helps build speed, power, and consistency into your strokes.

Legs

Maintain a slightly bent-knee stance, which helps you stay agile and ready to move in any direction. Use your legs to generate power by pushing off the ground when performing a chop. This action transfers energy from your legs through your torso and into your arm, adding force to your shot.

Shoulders

Keep your shoulders relaxed and level while executing a chop. Tense shoulders can restrict your range of motion and hinder the fluidity of your stroke. Maintaining a relaxed upper body will allow for smoother, more effective chops.

Arms and wrists

Your arm and wrist movements should be well-coordinated with your body rotation. As you initiate the chopping motion, use your forearm and wrist to generate spin and control. Keep your wrist flexible to ensure proper contact and spin on the ball.

Hips and waist

During the chop, rotate your hips and waist to create additional spin and power. This rotation not only adds momentum to your stroke but also engages your core muscles, contributing to a more stable and controlled movement.

5. Enhance Your Footwork

Footwork is incredibly crucial for choppers. Unlike offensive players, choppers need to cover a lot of front-to-back ground during matches.

As a result, I believe footwork is even more important than hand techniques. This is because if you can’t reach the ball or fail to be at the right place when the ball approaches, it becomes nearly impossible to return it with sufficient quality, regardless of your skill level.

Footwork can be best improved through multi-ball training.

Let’s envision a training session where you are the chopper and I am the coach providing multi-ball practice. You should stand slightly away from the table while remaining in the center. I would then send balls to the four corners of the table.

There are two modes for this exercise: one where I deliver the balls in a consistent pattern, allowing you to move continuously, and another with irregular ball placement, requiring you to anticipate the ball’s direction before I send it.

Regardless of the method used, both approaches require you to move, hit the ball, then reset and prepare for the next stroke. I can recall that during my younger years, I had to practice with several large containers of balls every day. There were several times that I would need to change clothes multiple times during the training sessions due to the intensity.

Apart from regular and intense practice, there are also two smaller tips that will transform your game:Â

Tip 1

During the match or training, you can stay on your toes. Always be on the balls of your feet, ready to move quickly in any direction. This posture allows for faster and more agile movements, enabling you to reach the ball more effectively.

Tip 2

You should practice lateral movement without a ball, table, or racket. Choppers need to move side-to-side efficiently, as they often face wide-angle shots from opponents. Incorporate lateral movement drills into your practice sessions to improve your agility and footwork in these situations.Â

Even the best players will struggle to win matches with poor footwork. Make footwork part of your regular training routine and youâ€ll see a quick improvement in your chopping ability.

6. Twiddle the racket to use different rubbers

Twiddling refers to the technique of quickly rotating or flipping the racket in your hand to change between the two sides, each with a different rubber. Itâ€s quite common to see players change the two sides between an inverted rubber and a long pips or short pips rubber.

Different rubbers produce varying amounts of spin and speed. By skillfully twiddling your racket, you can switch the rubber type in the middle of a rally, which adds an element of unpredictability to your shots. Ultimately making it more challenging for your opponent to anticipate the spin and speed of your returns.

As I mentioned, once the opponent gets used to your rhythm and playstyle, itâ€s super easy for them to win the game. Therefore, we have to constantly adjust our returns and surprise opponents with variations of spin, speed, and placement.

7. Utilize Ball Placement and Direct Shots to Their Weaker Side

Strategically aiming your chops at specific areas on the table can disrupt your opponent’s game.

I tend to test the weaker side of the opponent in the first few points of a match, and then aim at that area repeatedly.

For example, most players have weaker backhand, so I would send 80% of my chop shots to their backhand area and sometimes suddenly direct at their forehand area to surprise them.

Also, I recommend targeting the crossover point, or “elbow,” on my opponent’s weaker side to cause confusion and indecision. This can lead to errors or slower returns, giving us choppers an advantage.

A very good chop will land deeper on the table, which will make it super uncomfortable for your opponent to return the ball. For beginners, this should be used sparingly as the technique requires quite strong control and excellent ball feeling. When aiming deep the slightest misplacement will see the ball float long off the table..

What makes a good chopper?

Becoming a chopper in table tennis is not an easy feat. Even though many people may perceive defensive playing style to be elegant, they are very difficult to master.

However, I must emphasize that if you aspire to become a chopper, you must first accept that you will face fierce attacks and experience passive losses repeatedly until you gain enough experience and solidify your techniques.

During my first three years, I lost countless games to my peers, particularly when facing skilled attackers. Sometimes, I would fear their powerful loops, allowing them to score points easily with even average shots.

My coach constantly reminded me not to be afraid of my opponents. He explained that many of them were not as skilled as I imagined. He encouraged me to actively seek the ball and attempt to chop back some shots. Gradually, I gained courage and tried chopping more shots.

I discovered that after my first or two returns, around 60% of my opponents would make mistakes, especially with my long pips. This realization boosted my confidence, and I began to chop with more calm and focus, generating spinny shots and lowering my trajectory. Soon, I started winning matches.

Over time, I grew stronger, more powerful, and more confident. However, it was not an easy journey. So, if you ask me what makes a good chopper, I would say: confidence. My advice to you is to believe in yourself and practice consistently! Come on guys, we can make it!

Xinyu started playing table tennis when he was 8 years old in China and he’s also the owner of popular table tennis blog ppongsuper . He has trained with the Chinese provincial team and now plays competitively in the Spanish national league. He’s constantly striving to improve his skills and tactical abilities, as well as deepen his understanding of table tennis. He joined the Racket Insight team to share his passion and promote table tennis to more people!

Blade: Nexy Joo Sae Hyuk | Forehand:Butterfly Sriver FX | Backhand: Dawei 388d-1
Playstyle: The Defender

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