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In the modern era of table tennis, the backhand side is just as important as the forehand side.

In the past, most players would block, hit, push, and play topspins in the same proportion with their backhands. It was even viable to not topspin at the elite level on the backhand side.

In 2004, Ryu Seung Min won the Olympics without a backhand rubber, a feat thatâ€s hard to fathom given the current tactical and technical state of the sport.

Today, even penholders flick the ball, loop, and counterloop with their backhand sides. And, if you take a look at most table tennis clubs around the world, even beginners attempt to play backhand open-ups and loops.

This can be explained, among other things, by the advancement of modern equipment and what it allows us to do.

Thatâ€s why, in this article, weâ€ll go over our top 7 picks for the best backhand rubber for every playing style and level. Looking for the best forehand rubber? We’ve got you covered as well.

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Many of these rubbers also feature in our list of the best table tennis rubbers you can buy. If you want to explore 50+ rubbers filtered by the characteristics you care about, you can also check out our rubber review database.

Best Overall Backhand Rubber – Butterfly Tenergy 19

Specifications

• Weight (Cut): 49g
• Speed:High
• Spin:High
• Control: Medium
• Tackiness:Slightly Tacky
• Hardness: Medium (36° Butterfly scale)
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.7mm, 1.9mm, or 2.1mm

Summary:The Butterfly Tenergy 19 is the ideal backhand rubber. It has all the characteristics you’d want from a backhand rubber: great feeling, medium hardness, lots of explosiveness, and tons of grip. It is perfect for both active strokes and passive strokes.

Recommended For:

Playing Characteristics

The Tenergy 19 is ideal for playing topspin shots such as loops and open-ups. You get tons of spin, the throw angle is medium-medium/high and it is very fast when you accelerate onto the ball.

As for blocking, this rubber is great if you know what youâ€re doing. It is spin sensitive, but less so than the Tenergy 05 for example, and itâ€s also less bouncy, so you get relatively good control.

I also love it for the serve receive: both the passive serve receive and flicks are great. As for flicks, you get good clearance over the net, acceleration, and spin, and it isnâ€t that hard to touch short.

It is not the best choice for chopping, so if youâ€re more of an all-rounder, youâ€re probably better off choosing one of the next rubbers on this list. The Tenergy 19 is ideal for complete attackers who block, loop, open up, and counterloop.

Who the Butterfly Tenergy 19 Is Suitable For

The Tenergy 19 is perfect for intermediate-level players up to professional play. Recommended for USATT 1600+.

Benefits

• Superb balance between speed and control.
• Tons of grip.
• Great feeling.

Drawbacks

• Tenergy-levels of speed require good touch and technique.
• Price.

Best Hybrid Backhand Rubber – Butterfly Dignics 09c

Specifications

• Speed: High
• Spin: Very High
• Control: High
• Tackiness:Medium tacky
• Hardness:Hard (44° Butterfly Scale)
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.9mm or 2.1mm

Summary:The Butterfly Dignics 09c is a superb backhand rubber because of its spin, its control, and its arc. It is one of the most favored rubbers by professional players because it’s perfect for playing spin and counter-spin shots.

Recommended For:

Playing Characteristics

The Dignics 09c is probably the best rubber for topspins, period. It is the spinniest rubber available, it has a high throw angle, and tons of dwell time for a rubber with such a fast top-end speed.

As for blocking, this rubber is quite peculiar. It is spin-sensitive, very hard, and not that bouncy, so it feels different than most other rubbers. Itâ€s just a matter of getting used to it, really.

In terms of serve receive, the Dignics 09c is a great rubber because its grip and throw angle make it great for flicking. Touching short is also quite easy.

As for chopping, it isnâ€t bad, but itâ€s far from the best. You can definitely pull off the odd chop with it and come back to the table, though.

Who the Butterfly Dignics 09c Is Suitable For

In my opinion, the Dignics 09c should only be used by players with higher swing speeds, as itâ€s a very hard rubber. Recommended for 1800+ USATT players with fast strokes.

Benefits

• Spinniest rubber available
• Great control
• Unlimited power reserves

Drawbacks

• Need high swing speed to use it
• Price.

Best European Backhand Rubber for Advanced Players – Butterfly Dignics 05

Specifications

• Weight (Cut):48g
• Speed: High
• Spin: Very High
• Control:Medium-High
• Tackiness:Slightly Tacky
• Hardness: Hard (40° Butterfly Scale)
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.9mm or 2.1mm

Summary:The Butterfly Dignics 05 is a superb backhand rubber because of its touch, spin, and control. It is one of the most favored rubbers by professional players because it’s perfect for playing every single shot in an offensive player’s arsenal, from the serve receive to the counterloop.

Recommended For:

Playing Characteristics

The Dignics 05 is a great rubber for topspins, but you need to have a high swing speed to get good acceleration out of it. The spin is on par with the Dignics 09c as probably the spinniest rubber on the market.

As for blocking, this rubber is just perfect. It isnâ€t that bouncy, itâ€s quite hard and stable, and it has great touch. Itâ€s probably my favorite rubber for blocking.

In terms of serve receive, the Dignics 05 is great, especially for pushing and touching short. Flicking is also great but requires good acceleration.

As for chopping, it is a relatively good rubber because of its speed and control.

Who the Butterfly Dignics 05 Is Suitable For

As with the Dignics 09c, the Dignics 05 should only be used by players with higher swing speeds, as itâ€s a very hard rubber. Recommended for 1800+ USATT players with fast strokes.

Benefits

• Spinniest rubber available
• Great feeling and control
• Best rubber for blocking

Drawbacks

• Need high swing speed to use it
• Price.

Best Balanced Backhand Rubber – Butterfly Rozena

Specifications

• Speed: Medium
• Spin: High
• Control:Medium-High
• Tackiness:Slightly tacky
• Hardness: Medium-soft (35° Butterfly Scale)
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.7mm, 1.9mm, 2.1mm

Summary:The Butterfly Rozena is one of my favorite backhand rubbers, and my top pick for intermediate-level players. It is ideal because it’s superb for looping, blocking, and receiving serves. It has tons of control but also good speed and spin when you want to take the initiative.

Recommended For:

Playing Characteristics

The Rozena is a great rubber for topspins just because of how consistent it is.

It is a relatively fast rubber but not to the point that itâ€s hard to control, far from it. Itâ€s very easy to get the ball on the table, and thatâ€s the key when it comes to backhand rubbers if you arenâ€t all that confident in your loops and open-ups.

As for blocking, the Rozena is ideal. It is bouncy enough so that active blocks can be dangerous, but not to the point where you lose out on control.

In terms of serve receive, the Rozena is great for flicking, pushing long, touching short, you name it.

As for chopping, it is a relatively good rubber because of its control.

Who the Butterfly Rozena Is Suitable For

The Butterfly Rozena is ideal for players who already have mastered the fundamentals and want a modern rubber to attack with confidence. Recommended for 1200-1800 USATT.

Benefits

• Very confidence-inducing
• Great feeling and control
• Ideal for both looping and blocking

Drawbacks

• Not as much speed or spin as the Tenergies or Dignics

Best Value Backhand Rubber – Nittaku Fastarc G-1

Specifications

• Weight (Cut): 49g
• Speed:High
• Spin:High
• Control: Medium
• Tackiness:Slightly Tacky
• Hardness: Medium-Hard
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.4mm, 1.8mm, 2.0mm, or MAX

Summary: The Nittaku Fastarc G-1 is our pick for best value because it’s not only a superb backhand rubber but it’s also nearly endless in terms of durability. It is a fine offensive rubber that lasts 2, 3 even 5 times what other rubbers do.

Recommended For:

Playing Characteristics

The Fastarc G-1 is a great rubber for topspins. Itâ€s what youâ€d expect of a modern backhand rubber. Itâ€s high throwing, spinny, and quite fast, with good control.

As for blocking, this rubber is great. Its speed is ideal but due to its high throw, youâ€ll need to get used to closing your racket angle a bit more.

In terms of serve receive, the Fastarc G-1 is great, especially for flicking. Touching short and pushing long is also good.

We liked it quite a bit for chopping because we could generate quite a bit of spin with good control.

Who the Nittaku Fastarc G-1 Is Suitable For

We recommend the Nittaku Fastarc G-1 for intermediate and advanced-level players who want a great offensive rubber without breaking the bank. Recommended for 1600+ USATT players.

Benefits

• Fast and spinny
• Good control and high throw
• Incredibly durable and adequately priced

Drawbacks

• Not as fast or spinny as top-of-the-line rubbers

Best Backhand Rubber for All-rounders – Andro Rasanter R42

Specifications

• Speed:Medium-High
• Spin:Medium-High
• Control: High
• Hardness: Medium-soft (42° ESN Scale)
• ITTF Approved: Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.7mm, 2.0mm, ULTRAMAX

Summary: The Andro Rasanter R42 is a superb backhand rubber because of its control. It is the ideal rubber for beginners, intermediate-level players, and all-rounders who value control, spin, and touch more than anything else.

Recommended For:

Playing Characteristics

The Andro Rasanter R42 is great for looping. Itâ€s extremely easy to get loops on the table, open-ups carry great spin and itâ€s overall a very confidence-inducing rubber for attacking.

This is also a great rubber for blocking. Its speed is quite manageable for a rather offensive rubber so itâ€s easy to control incoming speed and spin.

In terms of serve receive, the Rasanter R42 is ideal as it has great control and touch as well as good enough spin for flicking the ball.

We also liked it for chopping because of the feeling and control it gave us over the ball.

Who the Andro Rasanter R42 Is Suitable For

The Rasanter R42 is ideal for all-rounders and developing attackers. We recommend it to players in the USATT 1000-1600 rating range.

Benefits

• Very confidence-inducing
• Superb feeling and control
• Great for topspins as well as blocks

Drawbacks

• Not the best for power looping

Best Backhand Rubber for Beginners – Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft

Specifications

• Speed:Medium
• Spin:Medium-High
• Control: Very High
• Hardness: Soft
• ITTF Approved: Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.7mm, 2.0mm, ULTRAMAX

Summary: The Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft is the ideal backhand rubber for beginners because it’s the best rubber to learn backhand techniques with. It’s offensive in nature, but with superb control, and it is ideal for those who want to learn the attacking game but are just starting out.

Recommended For:

Playing Characteristics

The Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft is the ideal rubber to learn how to topspin because of how much dwell time and margin for error it gives you. It does pack a punch if you swing hard, though!

As for blocking, this rubber is extremely forgiving and controllable, mainly because of its very manageable speed.

In terms of serve receive, the Rakza 7 Soft is great as it makes things a whole lot simpler: Touching short and pushing long is effortless.

As for chopping, it is a good rubber because of its control.

Who the Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft Is Suitable For

The Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft is ideal for players who are just starting out and want to learn all the backhand techniques. Recommended for 0-1200 USATT players.

Benefits

• Great feeling and control
• Very confidence-inducing
• Ideal for learning the game

Drawbacks

• Will need upgrading at some point
• Not that much speed or spin

Backhand Rubber Buyerâ€s Guide

If you’re looking for an in-depth guide to help you out, we’ve got the most extensive article covering what to look for when selecting a new rubber. Perfect for beginners, or anyone looking to upgrade their equipment. Don’t want to read thousands of words? Here’s a quick guide to buying a backhand rubber.

Several key factors influence which backhand rubber to go for. The main one is the speed of the rubber you choose, which will also determine its control.

If you take a look at our choices, we have included very fast rubbers, such as the Tenergy 19, and much slower ones, such as the Rakza 7 soft.

There is a world of difference between the speed and control of these two rubbers.

This makes sense if you think about what players they were designed for: the Tenergy was developed with professional players in mind while the Rakza was designed to suit even basement players who are just picking up the sport.

So, the main thing you have to nail is the speed of your rubber. If you choose a rubber thatâ€s too fast, you wonâ€t be able to control it properly.

However, if you choose a rubber like the Rakza 7 Soft and youâ€re an intermediate or advanced player, youâ€ll want a faster rubber because youâ€ll feel that it’s too slow for you.

You will also want a harder rubber as you improve, as softer rubbers are easier to bottom out and arenâ€t that stable overall when playing at higher speeds.

Alvaroâ€s a qualified ITTF Level 1 Coach who’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 15 and is now ranked within the top 50 in his native Argentina. He loves to compete in provincial tournaments and is always looking for ways to improve. Alvaro made his favorite memories with a racket in hand, and he joined the RacketInsight team to share his passion with other players!

Blade: Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC | Forehand: Butterfly Dignics 09c | Backhand: Butterfly Tenergy 19
Playstyle: The Controller

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Putting together a table tennis racket can be daunting, especially if you havenâ€t done it before. However, if you know what youâ€re doing, itâ€s actually a pretty simple task. Thatâ€s why weâ€re here to help!

In my opinion, most players can improve the process of gluing their rackets, as there are tons of tips and tricks that will not only make the process easier but also make your racket play better.

Gluing your rubbers correctly is essential. You can have the best blade and rubbers, but if the contact between them is suboptimal, the bounce will be uneven, the rubber wonâ€t grip the ball properly, and the feeling of the racket will be completely off.

A well-glued racket will help you feel the ball better and give you more spin, among many other things. In this article, weâ€ll help you achieve just that.

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Tools Needed

Before starting the process, we will outline the tools youâ€ll need.

You will need 7 items:

• Blade
• Rubber/s
• Glue
• Sponge
• Scissors/cutter
• Roller
• Paper towels (optional but recommended)

Firstly, you will need a blade and a rubber (or pair of rubbers) if youâ€re planning to build a complete racket from scratch.

This time, weâ€ll be changing the forehand rubber of my main racket. Weâ€ll be gluing a new Donic Bluestorm Pro AM to my Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC.

Next, you will need a sponge to apply the glue onto the rubber. Most glues come with small sponges you can use, but a kitchen sponge like this is also totally fine:

You can buy one of these, cut it into little pieces, and get 6-8 sponges for the same amount of rubbers.

You will also need the most important item on this list: VOC-free table tennis glue.

What glue you choose makes a world of difference. It is extremely, extremely important that you choose a glue you like to get the best results.

I have tried many brands of glue, some of which I liked more, while others I liked less.

Some make it easy to take the glue off when removing the rubber, others have a stronger effect so that the rubber doesnâ€t come off when you hit the racket onto the table, some dry faster, etc.

After trying many different glues, I settled on using Androâ€s Turbo Fix. Even though it doesnâ€t come off easily if you take your rubbers off, I really like it because it gives me a good feeling with the ball and my rubbers donâ€t come off when I hit the table. The bond it produces is very strong.

Other recommended glues are Butterflyâ€s Free Chack, Nittakuâ€s Fine Zip, and DHS†#15 glue, which is especially recommended for boosted rubbers.

The next item is either a cutter or scissors. I personally use scissors because I donâ€t really care about having the perfect cut.

I think scissors are the most convenient to use while cutters will give you the cleanest cut. Either is fine.

In addition, you will need a roller to roll your rubber onto the racket. I generally use a tube of deodorant but any cylindrical object that has little weight and covers the width of your racket will be fine.

Lastly, one item I always use when gluing my rubbers is paper towels.

I always put a paper towel next to the racket Iâ€m gluing so that if I put too much glue on either the blade or rubbers, I can take the excess off on that paper towel.

I find it extremely handy and I never have too much glue on my racket because of this little hack.

You can also put paper towels below your blade and rubbers so that you donâ€t get glue on your table or desk.

Step 1: Applying the Glue

Now that you have everything you need, itâ€s time to glue your racket!

Before applying the glue, make sure that your workspace is organized, clean, and tidy. I strongly recommend not gluing your rubbers, for example, at the club, where people may touch your blade or rubbers, knock them off the table, etc.

In addition, being at the club makes you want to speed up the process to try your racket out. Gluing a rubber doesnâ€t take too long, so thereâ€s no need to rush. Just take your time and make sure youâ€re doing everything right.

Firstly, you will apply glue to the rubber. You donâ€t want to apply too little or too much. Then, distribute the glue with the sponge as evenly as you can using top-to-bottom motions. Then, set it aside.

After distributing the glue on your rubber, take your blade and do the exact same thing. You can use the same sponge, but use less glue on the blade than on the rubber, because your sponge will already have glue in it.

Distribute the glue evenly as you did with the rubber, and set it aside for it to dry.

Step 2: Wait Time & Drying

So, youâ€ve applied glue to both the blade and rubbers. Now, we wait. But for how long?

How long your rubbers and blade take to dry will completely depend on the weather.

So, if you have the chance, itâ€s better if you choose a hot and dry day over a cold and humid one.

The drying process can last anywhere between 5-10 minutes to 2-3 hours.

I have glued rubbers on hot, dry summer days of around 37°C (98.6°F) and you can literally see the drying process happen in front of your eyes.

And, I remember another time a friend came over to have his rubbers glued by me, it was the only day we could do it, it was a rainy winter day. We had to wait for upwards of 2 hours for them to dry.

Iâ€m writing this article in winter, so itâ€s very cold here in Buenos Aires. The weather this day was 8°C (46°F), 47% humidity.

My blade and rubbers took a total of 1 hour and 20 minutes to dry completely. Iâ€d say the normal wait time in average conditions, say, 20°C (68°F) and normal humidity is around 20-30 minutes.

There are ways to speed up the drying process if you need to have your racket glued by a certain time.

For example, you can leave your components close to a heater, you can use a hair dryer (though I wouldnâ€t recommend it, just to be safe), you can use the package your rubber came into and push air towards the blade and rubbers, etc.

However, Iâ€d recommend that you just set the racket aside and wait. Now, how do we know when our components are ready to be glued?

Firstly, the glue has to turn completely transparent, with no white spots whatsoever. Thatâ€s the bare minimum requisite.

And, just to be sure, an extra measure you can take is to press onto the rubber with your finger and see if it sticks. If it does, that means the glue isnâ€t completely dry yet, so wait for just a bit longer.

Once the glue is completely transparent and your finger doesnâ€t stick too much onto your rubbers, youâ€re ready to put your racket together.

Step 3: Aligning and Pressing the Rubber onto The Blade

Now comes the hardest part: putting the racket together.

Firstly, grab your roller and keep it next to your blade. Then, grab your rubber and hover it over the blade.

Take your time and donâ€t rush, otherwise, you may glue your rubber slightly over the handle or leave a small gap between the handle and the head of the blade. Both have happened to me so itâ€s better to take your time.

Also, make sure that you arenâ€t coming at an angle and that youâ€re going to glue the rubber straight on.

Once youâ€ve aligned your rubber perfectly to the end of the handle, fix the bottom part of the rubber onto the blade. Then, grab the rubber with one hand and take your roller with the other, as we demonstrate in the video.

Now, you have to roll your rubber onto the blade. Make sure to use minimal pressure, you just want to ensure that the rubber contacts the blade on every spot.

If you use too much pressure, youâ€ll break the bond between the blade and the rubber, and youâ€ll have to do this process all over again.

Once youâ€ve rolled your rubber onto your blade, keep rolling it on the sides to ensure the sides are well glued, also with minimal pressure.

Step 4: Cutting Excess Rubber Cleanly

Now that the hardest part is done, itâ€s time to cut the rubber.

You can cut the excess rubber either with a pair of scissors or with a cutter/scalpel. A cutter will produce a much cleaner cut if youâ€re a perfectionist, but Iâ€ve always used scissors.

Make sure to do this process slowly as well so that you donâ€t cut the blade and you donâ€t leave excess rubber on.

Hereâ€s the final result ðŸ“

(Optional) Finish Off with Edge Tape

This oneâ€s personal preference, I donâ€t use edge tape but many players do and itâ€s a wise idea to do so, especially if you have a fragile blade, like mine.

Using edge tape is a good idea because it will protect your blade when you accidentally hit the table and it will prevent your rubbers from coming off on the sides.

I donâ€t like using edge tape because I feel like it slightly alters the feeling of my blade.

Some professional players feel the same and theyâ€ve started using edge tape only on the side where you hit the table.

Lin Yun-ju uses edge tape on just a small portion of his racket.

If youâ€re a righty, that would be the left part of your blade, and if youâ€re a lefty, thatâ€d be the right part of your blade.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistakes when it comes to gluing rackets are:

Not using a good glue

Iâ€ve used table tennis glues in the past that donâ€t produce good results, so your rubbers come off very easily if you hit the table. This means you have to be gluing your rubbers all the time.

I recommend reputable glues such as Androâ€s Turbo Fix, Butterfly Free Chack, or Nittaku Fine Zip.

Not using a sponge

I have seen countless players glue their rackets using their fingers or using dirty sponges.

A kitchen sponge is perfect, just make sure itâ€s brand new so that it isnâ€t dirty.

Not waiting long enough

Many players will glue their rackets before theyâ€re completely dry.

This rubber is NOT ready to be glued

This will hinder the bond between the blade and the rubbers, so be patient and wait until all the components are dry enough.

Using too much pressure when gluing

This is the biggest mistake of all, as you will definitely break the bond between the blade and the rubbers.

If youâ€ve ever played with a badly glued racket, youâ€ll know that it plays terribly, so make sure that the bond between the blade and the rubber is perfect.

Not aligning the rubber properly

Iâ€ve left gaps between the rubber and the handle tons of times, and Iâ€ve also glued rubbers over the handle more than once.

Thatâ€s why I learned to take my time when aligning rubbers to the handle.

Alvaroâ€s a qualified ITTF Level 1 Coach who’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 15 and is now ranked within the top 50 in his native Argentina. He loves to compete in provincial tournaments and is always looking for ways to improve. Alvaro made his favorite memories with a racket in hand, and he joined the RacketInsight team to share his passion with other players!

Blade: Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC | Forehand: Butterfly Dignics 09c | Backhand: Butterfly Tenergy 19
Playstyle: The Controller

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The STIGA Elite Roller sits in an interesting sweet spot in the table tennis world – it’s the table you’ll find in serious clubs across Europe and Asia, but it won’t drain your bank account like full tournament-grade equipment. At $900 USD, it promises professional features like a 22mm playing surface and robust German engineering, but costs hundreds less than competition-certified tables.

But here’s the question many players wrestle with: Is this “middle ground” table truly worth the investment?

After six months of intensive testing in a busy club environment, we’ve put the Elite Roller through its paces to help you decide. We’ve served, smashed, and even accidentally abused this table to understand whether its premium construction and playing characteristics justify that significant price tag.

In this hands-on review, we’ll examine everything from its bounce consistency to its storage design, helping you determine if the Elite Roller deserves its reputation as the go-to choice for serious clubs and dedicated players.

STIGA Elite Roller REVIEW SUMMARY

The STIGA Elite Roller delivers club-level performance with its 22mm thick surface, professional-grade bounce characteristics, and split design for easy storage. While not quite tournament-grade, it offers excellent value for serious players and clubs seeking a durable, high-performance table.

With features like individual folding halves, reliable safety mechanisms, and smooth-rolling casters, it’s clearly designed for intensive use. Though the wheel-side height adjustment can be challenging, the table’s overall build quality and proven durability in club settings make it a solid investment.

Playing Experience & Surface

Build Quality & Durability

Benefits

Professional-grade 22mm playing surface

Excellent bounce consistency across the entire surface

Robust construction suitable for daily club use

Easy one-person setup and storage

Reliable safety locking mechanisms

Smooth-rolling, lockable caster system

Drawbacks

Difficult wheel-side height adjustment

Premium price point for a 22mm table

Indoor use only

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Specifications

• Average RRP:  $ 1,600 USD
• Surface Thickness: 22
• Top Material:Wood
• Stand-Alone Halves:Yes
• Wheels: Yes
• Weight: 222lbs
• Storage Dimensions:60” x 23” x 67”
• Warranty:2 Year
• Location: Indoor Only
• ITTF Competition Approved:No

The STIGA Elite Roller Advance is an indoor table tennis table manufactured in Germany. The table features a 22mm playing surface constructed from compressed wood chips. The surface comes in a tournament-style blue finish with multiple coating layers for.

The table meets international tournament size requirements at 274cm × 152.5cm × 76cm (108″ × 60″ × 30″). When folded for storage, it measures 152.5cm × 60cm × 172cm (60″ × 24″ × 68″).

The frame construction includes a 60mm powder-coated light grey frame profile, complemented by a square-profile tube base (measuring 30×30mm and 40×40mm). Each table half is equipped with four 125mm rubber-treaded wheels.

The legs feature height adjustment capabilities with a 3cm range to accommodate uneven surfaces. The total weight comes in at 101kg (222 lbs), providing excellent stability during play while remaining manageable for transportation.

The table comes with a 2-year STIGA guarantee and complies with European standard EN 14468-1. Note that the package normally does not include a net, net stand, balls, or bats these must be purchased separately.

Important: This table is designed exclusively for indoor use and should not be exposed to moisture, humidity above 60%, direct sunlight, or extreme temperatures.

Setup and Assembly

Setting up the STIGA Elite Roller is straightforward and quick. The assembly process takes approximately 20 minutes to complete, and all major components come pre-assembled.

A notable feature is the interlocking design between the two table halves, which ensures perfect alignment during play. The table includes a dual-lock safety mechanism that automatically secures the table in both playing and storage positions.

The only setup challenge was adjusting the height on the wheel side of the table, which can be difficult compared to the non-wheel side. However, this is a minor inconvenience in an otherwise smooth assembly process.

Playing Experience & Surface Quality

The playing surface features a matte blue finish that matches the quality found in STIGA Expert competition tables. When properly maintained, the surface has retained its quality even with daily use by multiple players.

The white lines blend seamlessly with the blue surface, so you won’t notice any difference in bounce when the ball hits them. The edges are solid and well-built, and even after months of heavy use, the surface maintains its consistent bounce from center to edge. Weâ€ve had no dead spots or wear issues to report.

The frame and legs keep the table stable during play. The wheel locks are easy to engage with your foot, and once locked, the table stays firmly in place even during intense rallies. No wobbling or shifting to worry about.

Build Quality and Durability

After six months of nearly daily use by multiple players at a club setting, the STIGA Elite Roller demonstrates impressive durability. The playing surface maintains its appearance and quality with proper cleaning, showing resilience against regular intensive use. While some surface scratches have occurred due to user error, these incidents haven’t affected the table’s performance.

The undercarriage is built solidly. In our experience, the welded frame and cross braces show no signs of wear or wobbling. The large rubber wheels roll smoothly and lock securely in place during play. While all the technical specs are impressive on paper (60mm frame, squared steel tubing, etc.), what matters is that this table feels rock-solid whether you’re playing casual games or intense matches.

The table’s locking mechanisms and safety features continue to function perfectly after months of regular folding and unfolding. The height adjustment system and wheel locks maintain their effectiveness, though the wheel-side height adjustment remains a bit tricky.

Storage and Portability

The STIGA Elite Roller’s storage design is practical and functional. Each table half folds independently, allowing for single-person setup and storage. The folded dimensions (152.5cm × 60cm × 172cm) make efficient use of limited space.

For safety, the table includes a straightforward locking system with a red bar running the width of the table. When folded, this bar secures the table halves firmly in place. The unfold process requires lifting the red bar and pulling the table down slowly.

The table moves on four rubber-treaded wheels per half, with a simple foot-operated locking mechanism. When locked, the table remains stable during play. When unlocked, it rolls easily for transport. Multiple tables can be positioned side by side when folded, which is particularly useful in club settings.

Value for Money

The STIGA Elite Roller sits in the mid-range price segment at around $900 USD, which is a significant investment for most players. Our test unit in Finland came to 799€ including freight, and in our case, the seller threw in a STIGA Master net (though the table typically ships without one).

The price feels fair when you consider what you’re getting: a professional-grade 22mm playing surface, rock-solid construction that holds up to daily club use, and the convenience of easy setup and storage. While you’ll need to budget extra for a quality net set, balls, and other accessories, the table itself represents good value given its performance and durability.

For serious players and clubs looking for a reliable workhorse table that will last for years, the Elite Roller makes sense. But if you’re a casual player who doesn’t need tournament-level features, you might want to look at some more budget-friendly options.

Alternatives to the Stiga Elite Roller

Check our tool to compare all table tennis tables and find the right one for you.

Final Verdict

The STIGA Elite Roller successfully bridges the gap between recreational and professional table tennis tables. With its 22mm playing surface, consistent bounce characteristics, and robust construction, it delivers performance that will satisfy both serious club players and demanding recreational users.

The table’s standout features include its reliable safety mechanisms, smooth-rolling caster system, and excellent storage design. While the wheel-side height adjustment can be troublesome, the overall build quality and durability make it a sound long-term investment, particularly given its proven performance in high-traffic club environments.

At $900 USD, the Elite Roller represents a sizeable investment, but its durability and professional-grade playing characteristics justify the price.

Who Should Buy This?

✓ Club facilities seeking a durable, daily-use table

✓ Serious players who want competition-grade bounce without tournament-level prices

✓ Users who need a reliable split design for easy storage

✓ Players upgrading from recreational tables who want professional features

Who Should Look Elsewhere?

✗ Casual players who don’t need 22mm thickness

✗ Those seeking a budget-friendly first table

✗ Users requiring outdoor capabilities

✗ Players needing tournament-certified equipment

Check Latest Price at a Local Seller

Find out how much the STIGA Elite Roller costs on a localised Table Tennis store.

This review was supported by contributions from Racket Insight community member S. Saarikoski. We thank them for making sure this is the most accurate and in-depth review of the STIGA Elite Roller table available anywhere.

David’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 12, earning his first coaching license in 2012. He’s played in national team & individual competitions, although he prefers the more relaxed nature of a local league match! After earning his umpiring qualification in England, David moved to Australia and started Racket Insight to share information about the sport he loves.

Blade: Stiga WRB Offensive Classic | Forehand: Calibra LT | Backhand: Xiom Musa
Playstyle: The All-Rounder

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Playing table tennis is extremely fun, no doubt about it.

However, if youâ€ve played for a long period of time, like myself, youâ€ll notice that training can become quite repetitive if you do the same training routine all the time.

Thatâ€s why weâ€re writing this article: Weâ€ll give you 5 ideas you can implement to make table tennis practice more fun.

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Why Fun Matters in Practice

The answer is simple: If youâ€re reading this article, table tennis is your hobby.

Even if youâ€re a competitive player, hobbies are all about enjoying your time. Iâ€m 100% confident that Ma Long wouldnâ€t have been so good if he didnâ€t enjoy playing table tennis!

From my personal experience, most table tennis players who play in the higher leagues have been playing the sport for 10+ years.

And, I would say that the vast majority of players quit playing before that timeframe, even if they seem to be happiest when holding a table tennis racket.

I think thatâ€s a shame. The reasons why players quit vary, but, if you show up to the training hall and you have fun, chances are that youâ€ll do everything in your power to keep playing.

In my opinion, having fun is essential for long-term improvement simply because it will keep you wanting to play table tennis, after years or decades of training.

Enjoying your time at the table will also make you want to train more and more, leading to a virtuous cycle:

You will get better, you will want to play even more, your fitness and overall health will improve, you will socialize more, feel more accomplished, etc.

Table tennis helps improve mental health, memory, mental acuity, and reflexes, among many other positive effects such as relieving stress. This is why itâ€s so important to play table tennis and have fun while doing so.

5 Ideas to Make Table Tennis Practice More Fun

So, now that you understand why itâ€s so important to have fun, letâ€s move on to how you can have more fun in your training sessions.

Practice with A Goal in Mind

In my opinion, this is the main thing that makes me enjoy my table tennis training sessions.

Practicing with a goal or goals in mind is essential for long-term improvement and it keeps us a lot more engaged.

I find that what motivates me is rising up the ranks, winning tournaments, and reaching new divisions.

If there are no tournaments to look forward to, my motivation decreases, I donâ€t try as hard, and Iâ€m way more likely to skip training.

If I know thereâ€s a tournament coming up, I will show up to the club, and try my hardest. Thatâ€s when I have the most fun because Iâ€m 100% focused on playing well and improving.

One of the main reasons why players quit is because they have no goals or they donâ€t think they can achieve them.

Even if youâ€re not interested in playing tournaments, you can still set lots of interesting goals, such as learning a killer technique, trying to beat that one person who always seems to get the best of you, etc.

In my opinion, this is what will make you have more fun in your training sessions. If you have a goal in mind, you have a reason to try to play your best table tennis and hit some great shots.

If you have never set goals, try doing so and youâ€ll see a world of change in how motivated you are and how much fun you have.

Experiment

Another way to have more fun during your training sessions is to experiment.

As weâ€ve said before, itâ€s no fun doing the same things over and over again the same way. Switching things up is key to keeping things fresh.

You can experiment with new exercises, new techniques, and new tactics, among many other things.

My favorite way to switch things up is to do each of my exercises in different ways every training session.

Take for example the exercise “2 backhands 2 forehandsâ€. The most basic and simple exercise in table tennis, done by beginners and professional players alike.

If you do this exercise the same way all the time, it will get boring extremely quickly.

But, my way of keeping this exercise fun is to do it differently every time. Iâ€ll give you 7 different ways of doing the exercise:

1. Hitting with 70% power and aiming to get as many balls on the table as possible. You can set a target, such as trying to get 20 topspins on the table.
2. Hitting the first backhand and forehand with spin and the second one with speed.
3. Hitting the first backhand, stepping around with the forehand, and then hitting the two forehands, repeat.
4. Doing two rounds of the exercise, then playing the point freely.
5. Doing one round close to the table, and the next taking one step away from the table to practice playing from different distances.
6. Doing two backhands and two forehands but hitting all forehands.
7. Adding a backspin serve and open up in the first ball.

As you can see, you can introduce variations like these to keep every single exercise fresh and fun, even if youâ€ve done it a thousand times before.

Make Friends

Another way to keep things fun is to make friends.

I have trained with people I didnâ€t get along with in the past, and let me tell you, itâ€s not nearly as fun as training with friends.

If youâ€re training with friends, you can joke around, banter, talk about different topics in between exercises, etc.

In addition, Iâ€ve played in leagues with my friends before and it was way more exciting than playing with clubmates that werenâ€t my friends. I have also traveled to many tournaments with friends and those were extremely, extremely fun times.

It is way easier to make friends in table tennis because weâ€re all united by the same passion, so donâ€t be afraid to strike up a conversation with anyone you see in a table tennis club. You may find that strangers you meet at the club could become lifelong friends.

Try Your Hardest

My best training sessions all had one thing in common: I was trying my hardest. And, it is not a coincidence that my best sessions were the most fun.

It is extremely satisfying to hit the ball well and play great shots, thatâ€s what we train for! So, make sure to try your absolute hardest, even if itâ€s taxing on your body.

I can say that trying hard is fun because Iâ€ve been on the other side as well.

There have been times when I lost my motivation to train and that led me to not try my hardest.

My playing level stagnated or worsened, and I wasnâ€t giving my best at the playing hall. Let me tell you, those times werenâ€t fun.

Itâ€s important to remember why we started playing and staying true to that. If you want to get better, try your hardest, you will be rewarded, and youâ€ll enjoy your time at the table, no doubt about it.

Play Games and Take It Easy

Lastly, another way to have fun in table tennis is by playing games, playing with your non dominant arm, eating pizza after a training session, etc.

Table tennis is not only about improving and trying hard. Itâ€s also about knowing when to enjoy grabbing a long pimpled racket and chopping, playing a match for a soda, that sort of thing.

Believe it or not, itâ€s in line with the previous advice we gave (to try your hardest). It is important to reward our efforts in training with other table tennis related activities that are only just for fun.

When we train, if weâ€re doing it correctly, weâ€re working our bodies and minds to their absolute limits. Thatâ€s what makes training fun, in my opinion. But it also makes it quite tiring.

Some of my fondest memories at the club are playing football table tennis, telling stories, and playing cards.

Make sure that you have at least 10-15 minutes of goofing around with your clubmates after every hard training session. Believe it or not, this will also keep you coming back to the club.

Conclusion

To sum up, I believe that having fun playing table tennis is all about your environment and your mindset.

Showing up to the club with a positive attitude, challenging yourself, trying hard, experimenting new things. All of this is extremely fun, inspiring and rewarding.

And, if you can make friends in the process, youâ€ll end up feeling like your club is your second home.

Table tennis is an experience in and of itself. What you make of it depends on your purpose and mindset.

I highly advise that you stick to what you want and stay true to yourself. Thatâ€s the best way to enjoy playing this sport.

Alvaroâ€s a qualified ITTF Level 1 Coach who’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 15 and is now ranked within the top 50 in his native Argentina. He loves to compete in provincial tournaments and is always looking for ways to improve. Alvaro made his favorite memories with a racket in hand, and he joined the RacketInsight team to share his passion with other players!

Blade: Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC | Forehand: Butterfly Dignics 09c | Backhand: Butterfly Tenergy 19
Playstyle: The Controller

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Arylate-carbon (ALC) and zylon-carbon (ZLC) are two of the most popular composites used in table tennis blades.

The first ever blade to use a composite layer was the Butterfly Gergely, named after former Hungarian star Gábor Gergely.

This blade used Butterflyâ€s Tamca 5000 carbon, their proprietary carbon layer. In 1991, the Butterfly Keyshot was released, the first arylate blade.

And, in 1993, Butterfly came up with an amazing idea: mixing carbon fibers with arylate ones to produce an even better effect. They came up with the most legendary table tennis blade ever, the Butterfly Viscaria.

Sometime after, Butterfly experimented with weaving zylon fibers with carbon, and a different effect was achieved.

In this article, we will talk about the effects of arylate-carbon (ALC) blades compared to those of zylon-carbon (ZLC) ones. Letâ€s start with a quick summary table in case you donâ€t have time for the full explanation:

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How do ALC/ZLC blades work?

Before comparing them with one another and explaining their differences, weâ€ll give a quick explanation of how these blades work and what players they suit.

ALC Blades

Weâ€ll start explaining how ALC blades perform, as they are the most popular ones, by far.

Arylate is a composite renowned for its control and how it improves the dwell time of the blades in which it is used.

In fact, ALC blades are known for their feeling: they feel as though they “catch†the ball and hold onto it for a fraction more than other carbon blades.

Most ALC blades are also renowned for their balance, even though they are fast offensive blades, most are known for their high balance between speed, stability, and control.

ALC blades are often preferred by high-level and professional players because of just how reliable and well-rounded they are.

In terms of hardness and stiffness, ALC blades are hard and stiff enough to control high levels of incoming and outgoing power, but not to the point that they become hard to use.

In fact, these blades are known for their high ability to produce spin and for their relatively high throw angle when it comes to composite blades.

Zhang Jike, Timo Boll, Fan Zhendong, Lin Shidong, and countless others use or have used ALC blades throughout their career because of all these reasons.

ALC blades are the perfect solution for traditional loopers who value spin, power, control, stability, and touch.

ZLC Blades

ZLC blades are less popular than ALC blades because they arenâ€t as versatile, but they do have very marked strengths (and weaknesses).

ZLC as a composite is known for making blades play very directly. It makes blades faster, lower throwing, harder, and stiffer.

Most ZLC blades are quite offensive and they cater to players who value speed and stability more than anything else.

These blades are great for hitting, smashing, blocking, and playing fast loops. They arenâ€t usually as spinny or high throwing but they work perfectly for players who rely on speed and directness more than anything else.

The Differences Between ALC and ZLC Blades

So, we can say that:

ALC blades are generally softer, flexier, and have a more balanced feel. They are better for spinning the ball, they have more control and they are more versatile. Their throw angle is generally higher and they support an offensive, loop-based game.

ALC blades go well with any type of rubbers, be they European, Chinese, or hybrid.

We can think of countless examples of players and combinations.

Timo Boll used his Timo Boll ALC for most of his career. He first paired it with Tenergy 05 rubbers, which are the perfect fit for a spin-based, stable and explosive offensive game.

Then, he switched his Tenergies for Dignics 09c rubbers, which also pair perfectly with ALC blades. This combination excels at looping and counterlooping.

And, on the other end of the spectrum, Fan Zhendong, Zhang Jike, Lin Shidong, and many others have played the Butterfly Viscaria for years, pairing them with National Hurricane 3 rubbers.

This second combination is ideal for the Chinese-style powerlooping game.

In turn, ZLC blades are generally harder, stiffer, and play very directly. They are better for hitting the ball, blocking, and playing direct loops. They donâ€t have as much control and they require good technique from the player.

Their throw angle is generally lower and they support an ultra-offensive game based on direct loops, 3rd ball attacks, punches, and blocks.

We recommend pairing ZLC blades with high-throwing rubbers to counteract their low throw. Also, we suggest not pairing ZLC blades with hard rubbers unless youâ€re a very high-level player, or else the combination will end up being too hard.

And What About Super ALC and Super ZLC?

Speaking about Super ALC and Super ZLC, these two composites are more extreme versions of their regular counterparts.

What the “super†words mean is that they have more of that given composite, that is, the ALC or ZLC layer is thicker. This makes their effect much more pronounced.

Super ALC is like regular ALC in terms of feel but faster, harder, lower-throwing, and stiffer. The same holds for Super ZLC and ZLC.

For example, when comparing the Viscaria with the Viscaria Super ALC, the Super ALC is faster, more direct, and more unforgiving. It has more speed but less control.

The same holds true when comparing a blade like the Fan Zhendong ZLC to the Super ZLC. The Super ZLC is faster and more direct.

However, thereâ€s an argument to be made that super versions donâ€t hit a “sweet spot†when it comes to speed and control.

I struggle to find a case in which a player finds a regular Viscaria too slow.

Regular ALC and ZLC blades are plenty fast and theyâ€re still quite balanced and controllable. Thatâ€s the appeal of these blades: They are very fast but retain great feel, stability, and control.

With Super ALC and ZLC blades, some control is traded off for more speed.

I think that itâ€s only worth it to go for the Super versions if you want the fastest blades for an uncompromising ultra-offensive style.

Who Should Use Which Type?

In my opinion, most offensive players should use ALC blades.

These offer the best balance between speed, spin, and control in the world of composite blades, and countless world champions have used them for more than 20 years.

They are the most popular blades for a reason, and they have the best playing characteristics for the complete modern offensive style.

However, those players who love smashing, punching, and power looping for winners, can opt for ZLC blades for more directness and speed.

If you want even more speed, you can go for the Super versions, though Iâ€d only recommend them for advanced ultra-offensive players.

When in doubt, go for ALC.

And, if you are still a developing player or you value control and spin more than speed, but you want a capable, stable blade with the characteristics of a composite blade, you can opt for the inner carbon variants.

If you choose an inner carbon variant of the ALC or ZLC blades, youâ€ll get the effect of their composites in a more controllable package.

Alvaroâ€s a qualified ITTF Level 1 Coach who’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 15 and is now ranked within the top 50 in his native Argentina. He loves to compete in provincial tournaments and is always looking for ways to improve. Alvaro made his favorite memories with a racket in hand, and he joined the RacketInsight team to share his passion with other players!

Blade: Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC | Forehand: Butterfly Dignics 09c | Backhand: Butterfly Tenergy 19
Playstyle: The Controller

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Butterflyâ€s Dignics is the latest rubber range released by Butterfly.

Since their release in 2019, Dignics rubbers have been the choice of hundreds of the worldâ€s best players. They have become the gold standard of European/Japanese rubbers because of their outstanding playing characteristics.

Fan Zhendong, Lin Shidong, Tomokazu and Miwa Harimoto, Lin Yun-Ju, Dang Qiu, Cheng I-Ching, Anton Kallberg, and Dima Ovtcharov are just some of the thousands of professional players who use these rubbers to dominate the WTT circuit.

In this article, we will compare all of the Dignics and give recommendations based on your level and playing style. These are the Dignics 05, 09c, 64, and 80.

Also, if you haven’t seen them, make sure to check out our full reviews for the Dignics 05 and the Dignics 09c.

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Speed Comparison

In terms of speed, all of the Dignics rubbers are very offensive rubbers, but they are all less bouncy than their Tenergy equivalents.

That is, the Dignics 05 is much less bouncy than the Tenergy 05, the Dignics 64 is much less bouncy than the Tenergy 64, and so on.

This isnâ€t to say that Dignics rubbers canâ€t achieve the speed levels that the Tenergies can. Otherwise, professional players wouldnâ€t be using them.

You see, all of the rubbers in the range are fitted with extremely hard Spring Sponge Xs, and they play quite linearly. The Dignics 09c has a 44-degree sponge, while the other 3 have 40-degree sponges.

Source: Butterfly

Unlike the Tenergies, the Dignics are rubbers that make the short game quite easy, considering the speed they can output when powerlooping.

In terms of speed, they give you what you put in. They arenâ€t the type of rubbers that do the work for you, far from it.

To make the best use of this rubber line, you have to have a sufficiently high swing speed. Thatâ€s why pros and advanced players love them so much.

They have superb control in the short game and killer power when needed, the best of both worlds.

The fastest Dignics in the line are the 64, followed by the 80. These are the ones to go for if you want to try a Dignics and arenâ€t that confident in your swing speed.

The Dignics 05 and 09c are similar in terms of speed. I have tons of experience using both, and the 05 is very slightly bouncier, whereas the 09c, which has a harder sponge, packs a bit more punch when powerlooping.

In terms of dwell time, all of the Dignics rubbers will give you the time you need to contact the ball right, and this is especially true for the 09c.

To sum up, donâ€t expect the Dignics to be speed demons. They will be if you swing hard enough, but you wonâ€t feel that liveliness and trampoline effect of the Tenergies.

Spin Comparison

In terms of spin, the Dignics 09c and the Dignics 05 are the spinniest.

In fact, these 2 rubbers are among the spinniest and grippiest rubbers available. Period.

In my opinion, the 09c is the spinniest hybrid rubber there is, and the 05 is the spinniest grippy rubber there is.

The amount of grip these rubbers have is unreal.

This is also why the Dignics line is so durable; they just have that much more grip than most other rubbers.

For example, a sheet of Dignics 05 can last me up to one year, which is 3x the length other similar rubbers last me.

In my Dignics 05 review, I mentioned a controversial opinion I have: Dignics rubbers are great value at around 90 dollars because of how long they last. This is especially true for the grippy offerings, but the 09c lasts quite a long time as well.

In fact, I used my Dignics 05 for around 8 months of heavy training and playing, and it was still extremely grippy by the time I took it off. I still have that sheet on a spare racket, years after I purchased it, and it grips the ball amazingly well to this day.

The spin these rubbers generate is much higher than that of other offensive rubbers. When opening up, looping, or even when serving, these rubbers put much more spin on the ball.

You will notice that youâ€ll force more mistakes from your opponents because of this additional rotation.

Both the Dignics 80 and 64 are still very spinny rubbers, but they produce noticeably lower spin than the 05 and 09c. This is especially true for the Dignics 64.

However, the 64 is less spinny for a reason: It plays more directly, and it is more spin-insensitive. This makes it easier to block, receive serves, and counterloop spinny balls.

The Dignics 80 lies just in the middle, so itâ€s a good rubber to go for if you want a good balance between spin and ease of use.

Control Comparison

In terms of control, all of the Dignics rubbers are quite controllable, especially considering the speed and spin they can output.

The most controllable rubbers in the range are the Dignics 09c and the Dignics 05.

Their control is one of their key attributes. In fact, Dima Ovtcharov said in an interview with TableTennisDaily:

“The ball stays longer in the racket (compared to the Tenergy series). With Tenergy, I need to find the right angle, if I donâ€t, I would miss. With Dignics, I can find the wrong angle and still put the ball on the tableâ€.

As an amateur player, I found that what Dima said holds true at my level. When playing with the Dignics series, I got many more balls on the table compared to when I used to use the Tenergies.

This is especially true for harder shots such as the serve receive or countertopspins, you really get much more forgiveness, grip, and time with the ball.

The Dignics 09c has some added control because of its tacky topsheet, it is ideal for looping because the topsheet grips the ball more than any other rubber Iâ€ve tried.

Butterfly says the following about the 09c: “Although it performs powerfully even if you hit from the middle distance from the table, its ball-holding tackiness lends excellent passive control.â€

The Dignics 05, being the least bouncy of the grippy offerings, is also very controllable in all aspects of the game.

I found that the 05 is more controllable than the 09c when blocking. The feeling is just perfect.

The Dignics 80 is just a bit less controllable than the 05 because itâ€s a bit more reactive, and the same holds true when comparing the 64 with the 80.

However, as weâ€ve said before, all of the Dignics rubbers are quite controllable.

They should be used by advanced players because their sponges are extremely hard, not because they are too bouncy.

Arc Comparison

There is quite a bit of variance in terms of the arc the Dignics produce.

Dignics 09c has the highest throw angle by far. It is the only rubber in the range that I consider to have a medium-high/high throw angle.

The 09câ€s throw angle is one of its key advantages, in my opinion. It has all of the advantages of an extremely hard rubber, while having the safety over the net that softer rubbers usually have.

Butterfly says this about the Dignics 09c: “The short push stops near the net while the topspin lands deep in the opponentâ€s court.â€

The next in line is the Dignics 05, but it merely has a medium throw angle. Iâ€d say itâ€s quite a direct rubber with a much flatter parabola compared with the 09c.

The Dignics 80 is slightly lower throwing than the 05, and the 64 is slightly lower throwing than the 80.

However, both can be placed into the “medium†throw angle category. Perhaps you can call the Dignics 64 “medium-low†throwing.

Conclusion and Recommendations

To sum up, this is our official comparison chart in its entirety:

Given these attributes, Iâ€ll share our recommendations for which rubber you should get depending on your needs:

Specifications

• Speed: High
• Spin: Very High
• Control: High
• Tackiness:Medium tacky
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.9mm or 2.1mm

Summary:Overpower opponents with serves, receives, loops, and counters with the ultimate hybrid rubber.

We recommend the Dignics 09cif you want a safe, high-arcing rubber, primarily for looping with tons of spin, safety, and top-end speed when hitting hard.

The Dignics 09c is the most popular Dignics because itâ€s the most special rubber for looping with speed, spin, and consistency while having incredible control.

If youâ€re an offensive player who likes to spin the ball, the Dignics 09c is probably the best rubber you can get in todayâ€s market.

We recommend it for upper-intermediate and advanced offensive players. Suitable for The Aggressor and The Controller playing styles.

Specifications

• Weight (Cut):48g
• Speed: High
• Spin: Very High
• Control:Medium-High
• Tackiness:Slightly Tacky
• Hardness: Hard
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.9mm or 2.1mm

Summary:Dominate the whole pallet of offensive strokes with the ultimate grippy rubber.

We recommend the Dignics 05 if you want one of the best, and possibly the spinniest, grippy rubber available.

The Dignics 05 is a special rubber because itâ€s probably the ideal rubber for high-level European-style table tennis.

Itâ€s very hard, spinny, direct, and controllable. You get great control in the short game and when counterlooping, as well as incredible levels of grip for topspinning and stability when blocking.

This rubber was made for the modern, advanced European/Japanese style. Perfect for The Aggressor and The Controller playing style.

Specifications

• Speed: High
• Spin: High
• Control: Medium-High
• Tackiness:Slightly tacky
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.9mm and 2.1mm

Summary:Dignics 80 blends spin and speed for all-round attackers, offering a balanced feel between Dignics 05 and 64.

We recommend the Dignics 80 for players who want the characteristics of the Dignics 05 but with easier speed generation.

It is essentially a Dignics 05 with a bit less spin but with a sponge thatâ€s a bit more dynamic. The 05 can be quite difficult to hit winners with if you donâ€t have good acceleration, and for that, the Dignics 80 is a good solution.

Itâ€s also a better backhand rubber than the Dignics 05 for many amateur players, as most of us canâ€t generate that much power with our backhand strokes.

We recommend it for intermediate, upper intermediate, and advanced offensive players. Suitable for The Controller and The Aggressor playing styles.

Specifications

• Speed: High
• Spin: Medium High
• Control: High
• Tackiness:Slightly tacky
• ITTF Approved:Yes
• Sponge Thickness:1.9 and 2.1

Summary:Dignics 64 offers high speed and control with a low arc, ideal for fast attacks and mid-distance looping play.

The Dignics 64 is the fastest and most direct of the Dignics series.

The main attributes of the Dignics 64 are its relative insensitivity to incoming spin, its speed, and its medium, direct arc. It is ideal for blocking, flat-hitting, and countering.

This rubber is a great alternative for those players who want the uncompromising characteristics of the Dignics line in a faster, more direct package. Suitable for The Aggressor playing style.

Alvaroâ€s a qualified ITTF Level 1 Coach who’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 15 and is now ranked within the top 50 in his native Argentina. He loves to compete in provincial tournaments and is always looking for ways to improve. Alvaro made his favorite memories with a racket in hand, and he joined the RacketInsight team to share his passion with other players!

Blade: Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC | Forehand: Butterfly Dignics 09c | Backhand: Butterfly Tenergy 19
Playstyle: The Controller

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In the fast-paced world of table tennis, world rankings are more than just numbers—they’re the definitive measure of a player’s standing in the sport. These rankings determine tournament seedings, Olympic qualifications, and often, a player’s entire career trajectory.

The International Table Tennis Federation (ITTF), the sport’s governing body, maintains these crucial rankings. From elite professionals to rising junior stars, from singles specialists to doubles champions, every competitive table tennis player worldwide aims to climb the ITTF ranking ladder.

But how exactly does a player rise to World #1? What separates a top-10 player from a top-100 player?

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll decode the ITTF ranking system, exploring its calculation methods, tracing its evolution over time, and highlighting the legendary players who’ve reached its summit.

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How ITTF World Rankings Are Calculated

ITTF rankings are based on points players earn from their tournament performances. Players accumulate points based on how far they advance in each tournament, with more prestigious tournaments offering more points.

There are hundreds of table tennis competitions that award ranking points every year, so itâ€s easy to get confused.

World Table Tennis (WTT), which operates under the ITTF, organizes many of the major competitions that award ranking points. These WTT events form the backbone of the professional circuit, but there are also several non-WTT tournaments that contribute to a player’s ranking, such as continental competitions, the World Cup, the World Table Tennis Championships, and the Olympic Games.

In terms of which tournaments award the most ranking points, there are three key types everyone should know about:

• The 4x WTT Grand Smashes
• The World Table Tennis Championships
• The Olympic Games.

These 3 competition types each award up to 2,000 points each, marking them as the top tier events in the table tennis calendar. Further to that, weâ€ve grouped events into a few different tiers:

Second Tier (1,500 Points)

Third Tier (1,000 Points)

• WTT Champions Events (4 per year)

Lower Tiers

• Star Contenders (600 Points)
• Continental Championships (500 Points)
• Regular WTT Contenders (400 Points)
• WTT Feeder Events (150 Points)

Below that, there are other tournaments such as other international events and youth events, but they award even fewer points.

A given playerâ€s total points are calculated by adding the 8 events in which they earned the most points in the last 365 days. So, if they have participated in 9 or more events in the last 365 days, only the top 8 results will count towards their sum of points.

What’s the History of the Table Tennis Ranking?

Starting in January 1987 (quite late in the history of table tennis), the ITTF has been publishing rankings on a regular basis. Initially, the world rankings were merely a way to recap the results of each of the World Cups.

The ITTF Pro Tour was established in 1996, way before the WTT circuit was invented. This was when the world rankings really started gaining weight and credibility.

The ITTF Pro Tour was the equivalent of todayâ€s WTT circuit. The WTT brand is, essentially, an upgraded version of the ITTF Pro Tour.

In 2001, the ranking system changed, along with the scoring system. And, in 2020, the inaugural WTT event was held, changing the rankings system once again.

How Has The Ranking System Changed?

The ranking system has undergone three major changes. In its first iteration, world rankings simply ordered players based on their World Cup performances.

With the advent of the ITTF Pro Tour, the ranking system changed once again to weigh the tourâ€s tournaments together with the World Cups and the Olympic Games.

And, finally, the system was revamped in that players werenâ€t given “starting points†based on their wins, but rather, they started at 0 points and gained points based on their placements in the various tournaments we talked about before.

What Categories Are Included In The Table Tennis World Rankings?

There are 6 main categories and many more subcategories in the table tennis world rankings.

These categories are: singles, doubles, doubles individuals, youth, team, and para rankings.

While singles rankings are straightforward, doubles rankings work differently. The ITTF maintains two types of doubles rankings:

• Traditional doubles rankings that rank pairs as teams
• Individual doubles rankings that measure a player’s success with all partners

A player might be ranked #15 in singles, #8 in mixed doubles with their regular partner, and #12 in the individual doubles ranking based on their results with multiple partners. The individual doubles ranking is particularly important for players who frequently change partners or compete in both same-gender and mixed doubles events.

Tournament points for doubles events are typically lower than singles events, reflecting the different competitive dynamics of paired play. You might enjoy our table tennis doubles guide for more information.

The most cited rankings are the menâ€s singles and womenâ€s singles rankings, but there are more than 40 different official table tennis rankings.

For example, para table tennis is divided into 3 subcategories: classes 1-5 (wheelchair), classes 6-10 (standing), and class 11 (intellectual impairment).

And, there are 8 different rankings in each of the 3 para table tennis categories: men’s and womenâ€s singles, men’s, womenâ€s and mixed doubles, and menâ€s, womenâ€s, and mixed doubles individuals.

That means there are 24 different official ITTF rankings in the para table tennis category alone.

Who Has Held the World Number 1 Ranking?

Throughout table tennis history, many exceptional players have achieved the prestigious world number 1 ranking, including the greatest table tennis player of all time – Ma Long. Here are the players who’ve held the top spot the longest as of early 2025.

We donâ€t have the same statistics for the womenâ€s rankings, but some of the most dominant players whoâ€ve held the #1 rankings include Ding Ning, Zhang Yining, Sun Yingsha, Wang Nan, and Chen Meng.

Alvaroâ€s a qualified ITTF Level 1 Coach who’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 15 and is now ranked within the top 50 in his native Argentina. He loves to compete in provincial tournaments and is always looking for ways to improve. Alvaro made his favorite memories with a racket in hand, and he joined the RacketInsight team to share his passion with other players!

Blade: Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC | Forehand: Butterfly Dignics 09c | Backhand: Butterfly Tenergy 19
Playstyle: The Controller

David’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 12, earning his first coaching license in 2012. He’s played in national team & individual competitions, although he prefers the more relaxed nature of a local league match! After earning his umpiring qualification in England, David moved to Australia and started Racket Insight to share information about the sport he loves.

Blade: Stiga WRB Offensive Classic | Forehand: Calibra LT | Backhand: Xiom Musa
Playstyle: The All-Rounder

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The Donic Waldner Premium 30 sits in an interesting spot in the table tennis market – promising tournament-grade specifications and German engineering at a price point well below flagship models. At around $1,500, it competes directly with popular mid-range options while offering premium features like a 30mm playing surface and professional-grade frame construction.

After extensive real-world testing and gathering feedback from competitive players, this review will dive deep into whether the Waldner Premium 30 delivers on its promises. We’ll examine everything from playing characteristics and build quality to storage solutions and long-term value, helping you decide if this ITTF-approved table is the right investment for your needs.

Whether you’re outfitting a club, upgrading your home setup, or searching for tournament-worthy equipment without the flagship price tag, our comprehensive analysis will guide your decision.

Donic Waldner Premium 30 REVIEW SUMMARY

The Donic Waldner Premium 30 delivers tournament-grade quality at a mid-range price point, offering exceptional value for serious players and clubs at around $1,500.

Its 30mm playing surface and professional-grade frame construction provide outstanding performance and durability, with consistent bounce and excellent spin response that will satisfy competitive players.

While the 280-pound weight and premium price tag may be overkill for casual players, the table’s German engineering, ITTF approval, and robust build quality make it an excellent long-term investment for clubs and dedicated enthusiasts seeking professional specifications without flagship model costs.

Playing Experience & Surface

Build Quality & Durability

Benefits

Professional-grade 30mm playing surface

Great value vs competitors

Large wheels roll smoothly

Splits into two halves

Auto-locking system works reliably

Extremely durable paint finish

Drawbacks

Very heavy at 280lbs

Net sold separately

Blue color only

Short 1 year warranty period

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Specifications

• Average RRP:  $ 1,545 USD
• Surface Thickness:13mm, 15mm, 18mm, or 25mm
• Top Material:Wood
• Stand-Alone Halves:Yes
• Wheels: Yes
• Weight: 313lbs
• Storage Dimensions:64″x 63″ x 26″
• Warranty:1 Year
• Location: Indoor Only
• ITTF Competition Approved:Yes

The Donic Waldner Premium 30 is a competition-grade table tennis table made in Germany. The table weighs 280 pounds and splits into two halves making it easier to move than connected halves.

The table’s construction centers around its 30mm playing surface, which is 5mm thicker than most standard competition tables. A thicker table normally results in a more even and predictable bounce, but I think youâ€d struggle to find many people who can spot the difference between a 25mm and a 30mm surface.

For mobility, the table comes equipped with 4-inch wheels featuring a braking system and safety locks. Additional safety features include a locking mechanism to keep the table secure during play. Our table didnâ€t come with a net & post set, so thatâ€s an additional cost on top of an already expensive table.

The table meets ITTF tournament specifications, making it suitable for both competitive play and serious training environments. Itâ€s definitely designed for clubs and tournament venues more than a home setup.

Playing Experience & Surface Quality

After several months of regular play and testing, we can absolutely confirm that the Donic Waldner Premium 30’s playing surface delivers exceptional performance that justifies its premium positioning.

This table is an absolute dream to play on.

What really stands out is how the surface rewards good technique. When you execute a proper topspin drive, the ball grips and launches exactly as it should. The same goes for delicate touch shots and serves – the predictable response gives you complete confidence in shot placement. This level of consistency is exactly what you’d expect from a premium competition-grade table.

That said, I should note that while the 30mm thickness is impressive on paper, most players would be hard-pressed to notice a significant difference compared to a standard 25mm surface. Both provide excellent play characteristics at this quality level. But if you’re determined to have the ultimate competition table and budget isn’t a concern, the Waldner Premium 30 won’t disappoint.

Build Quality and Durability

The Donic Waldner Premium 30’s construction centers around a robust 60mm steel frame that has remained rock-solid through months of intensive play. During testing, we experienced zero wobbling or stability issues.

The paint quality and coating are top-tier, though this is expected at this price point. After months of heavy use, there’s no visible wear in high-impact areas, and the distinctive Donic blue color remains vibrant.

The wheels and braking system have also held up perfectly, making it easy to move and secure the table despite its substantial 280-pound weight.

Most importantly, the table feels just as solid now as it did when first assembled, suggesting this is a long-term investment that should hold up well over years of regular use.

Storage and Portability

Despite its substantial 280-pound weight, the Waldner Premium 30 manages to be surprisingly easy to transport. The table separates into two halves, which is a huge advantage when moving it through doorways or around tight corners. When folded, the table’s compact storage dimensions of 63″ x 26″ x 64″ make it reasonable to store pretty much anywhere.

The 4-inch wheels are a standout feature – they’re significantly larger than what you’ll find on many recreational tables, making movement smooth even on slightly uneven surfaces. During our testing, one person could maneuver each half confidently, though we’d recommend two people for safety given the weight.

The folding mechanism is well-engineered and operates smoothly. Each half folds independently with a secure locking system that engages automatically when fully opened or closed. This same mechanism enables the playback position for solo practice, although you should just buy a robot for that.

Value for Money

At $1,500, the Donic Waldner Premium 30 delivers exceptional value for a competition-grade table. This price point is significantly lower than comparable ITTF-approved tables like Butterflyâ€s Centrefold 25, which typically range from $2,300-2,700.

What makes this particularly impressive is the combination of premium features usually reserved for more expensive tables. You’re getting German manufacturing, a 30mm tournament-grade surface, and professional-grade frame construction at a mid-range price point. The only additional cost to consider is a net and post set ($60-100), which isn’t included.

With proper maintenance, you can expect 10-15 years of reliable service in a club setting, bringing the annual cost to around $100-150 which is very reasonable.

For clubs looking to outfit multiple tables or serious players wanting tournament-grade equipment, the Premium 30 represents an unusual opportunity to acquire professional specifications without the premium price tag typically associated with this level of quality.

However, itâ€s also worth considering mid-range 25mm tables for a few hundred dollars less like the Stiga Expert Roller or JOOLAâ€s Tour 2500.

Alternatives to the Waldner Premium 30

Check our tool to compare all table tennis tables if you’re looking for more inspiration.

Final Verdict

Donicâ€s premium table delivers professional-grade performance at a competitive price point, though it’s not without a few minor compromises.

The table excels in what matters most – playing experience. The 30mm surface provides consistent, tournament-quality bounce and excellent spin response. Combined with the rock-solid frame construction and precise engineering, it creates a playing experience that will satisfy even demanding competitors.

However, this table isn’t for everyone. At $1,500 plus the cost of a net set, it represents a significant investment. The 280-pound weight, while contributing to stability, also means you’ll need dedicated space and careful consideration of placement.

Who Should Buy This Table?

Buy this table if you:

• Run a table tennis club or training facility
• Are an advanced player wanting tournament-grade equipment
• Value long-term durability over initial cost savings

Consider alternatives if you:

• Need a table for casual recreational play
• Have limited space or frequently need to move the table
• Are working with a tighter budget

The Donic Waldner Premium 30 represents excellent value for serious players and clubs, offering near-flagship performance at a mid-range price point. While most recreational players might be better served by less expensive options, any seeking a table for their club will find the Waldner Premium 30 delivers exceptional quality and durability that justifies the investment.

This review was supported by contributions from Racket Insight community member, Stu. We thank them for making sure this is the most accurate and in-depth review of the JOOLA Inside table available anywhere.

David’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 12, earning his first coaching license in 2012. He’s played in national team & individual competitions, although he prefers the more relaxed nature of a local league match! After earning his umpiring qualification in England, David moved to Australia and started Racket Insight to share information about the sport he loves.

Blade: Stiga WRB Offensive Classic | Forehand: Calibra LT | Backhand: Xiom Musa
Playstyle: The All-Rounder

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“Should I get MAX thickness or go thinner, like a 1.8mm sponge?”

It’s a question that puzzles both beginners and advanced players alike. While most players obsess over choosing the perfect rubber, they often overlook a crucial decision: sponge thickness. Get it wrong, and even the best rubber in the world won’t perform as intended.

If this sounds like you, weâ€ve got you covered. In this article, weâ€ll go over the effects of going for a thinner or thicker sponge thickness.

Weâ€ll talk about inverted rubbers, short pips, long pips, and antispin separately because the effects differ greatly depending on the rubber type.

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Inverted Rubbers

Butterfly Dignics 09c
Source: Butterfly

Let’s begin with inverted rubbers, which account for the majority of rubbers used in modern table tennis. Understanding how sponge thickness affects these rubbers provides a foundation for understanding all rubber types.

The traditional rule of thumb is that, if youâ€re an offensive player, you should choose thicker sponges, and, if youâ€re an all-rounder or a defender, you can go thinner.

However, this common advice oversimplifies a complex relationship between player technique and equipment characteristics. Let’s break down the physics in practical terms.

The Physics Behind Sponge Thickness

While researching this topic, I came across a very interesting comment by a user on Reddit that coincides with my findings.

Iâ€ll explain it using my words.

When the ball hits the rubber, the sponge underneath gets compressed to a certain extent, but the sponge doesnâ€t want to be compressed. So, it will store energy before pushing back against the ball to reverse its direction.

This effect is like that of a trampoline. When we jump on a trampoline, it gets compressed up to a certain extent before shooting us back up.

So, you might think, that the thicker the sponge, the more compression we can get, thus, our shots will be faster and spinner right? Well, yes and no.

Finding Your Sweet Spot

Common sponge thicknesses for inverted rubbers range from 1.5 to 2.5mm.

Now, imagine if we could get a 10mm sponge. Would it make sense? No.

This is because no human on the planet can hit hard enough to compress 10mm of sponge on a table tennis shot.

In addition, such a thick rubber would be extremely heavy and itâ€d make the racket extremely head-heavy.

Conversely, an extremely thin sponge (say, 0.1mm) would “bottom out” – compress fully – even with minimal force, providing little energy storage potential.

The Power-Thickness Relationship

This relationship between hitting power and sponge compression reveals why players with different power levels need different thicknesses. More powerful shots require thicker sponges to store and return energy efficiently.

The harder we hit, the more weâ€ll benefit from thicker (and harder) rubbers, as weâ€ll be able to hit harder and harder without bottoming out the sponge. With thicker sponges, we can store more energy.

The perfect sponge thickness and hardness should match your maximum swing speed, optimizing both control and speed for your level of play.

The Reddit user explains it this way:

If you’re a professional player and you’re constantly hitting the ball with tons of force, you can hit the sweet spot with max sponge thickness and very hard sponge for the fastest bounce possible.Â

If you’re an amateur who doesn’t always hit the ball with tons of force, your sweet spot will involve a softer sponge, thinner sponge, or a combination of both.

In theory, you could plug some parameters into a mathematical equation and find exactly what sponge hardness and thickness would be optimal for you, but as a practical matter nobody actually knows these input values.

Practical Recommendations

So what should you do?

Itâ€s often worthwhile to opt for thicker rubbers if youâ€re an offensive player, even if youâ€re a beginner.

This is because if you want to hit the ball harder and harder over time, the rubber wonâ€t bottom out, and itâ€ll reward you for hitting hard.

There are relatively tame rubbers such as the Xiom Vega Intro or the Yinhe Mercury 2, that, even if you get them in MAX thickness, theyâ€ll still be controllable while almost never bottoming out.

Iâ€d recommend opting for thinner sponges in the following cases:

• Youâ€re a control-oriented player such as a pusher, blocker, or a classic defender. In this case, you can go for thinner sponges such as 1.5-1.8mm.
• You want to reduce the weight of your racket because of personal preference, wrist pain, etc. Getting a thinner sponge will reduce the weight of your bat.
• You can choose a slightly thinner variant on your backhand side as an offensive player because you wonâ€t hit the ball as hard, but I wouldnâ€t go any thinner than 2.0mm myself.

Short Pips

Nittaku Moristo SP
Short pips

Short pips are similar to inverted rubbers in some ways regarding how different sponge thicknesses affect them, and different in others.

Because short pips have less grip than inverted rubbers, short pips with thinner sponges can be beneficial for players who want to use them to play defensive strokes such as blocks or chops.

For those who want to hit and attack with the short pips, itâ€s still worth it to go for 2.0 or thicker sponges.

There are also players who use OX short pips, that is, without a sponge. These rackets are known as “hardbatsâ€.

OX short pips work well because you have good control over the ball, the pips lose quite a bit of spin sensitivity, and they produce very awkward balls.

If you block with these pips, theyâ€ll return wobbly, no-spin balls, and if you chop with them, they give out anything between no-spin to medium backspin.

• So, if you want to play an active block, punch, hit, and loop game, go for thicker sponges such as 2.0mm or MAX.
• If you want to play an all-round game, itâ€s probably better to go for anywhere between 1.5 and 2.0mm sponge thickness.
• If you want to try out hardbat, purchase OX short pips.

Long Pips

Dawei 388D-1
Long Pips

Long pips players generally fall into two distinct categories: close-to-table players who focus on blocking and creating attacking opportunities, and away-from-table defenders who rely on chopping and backspin shots.

Most players should use OX long pips, that is, without sponge, because these pips have the most reversal, that is, they reverse incoming spin the best.

So, if your opponent gives you a heavy topspin and you just block it back, if your long pips have no sponge, your opponent will receive medium to heavy backspin.

In contrast, long pips with 1mm sponge produce less spin reversal, returning mostly no-spin or slight backspin balls.

Understanding Sponge Effects

You should use sponge on your pips if you play away from the table because this will allow you to create more spin by yourself.

While OX long pips excel at reversing your opponent’s spin, they struggle to generate new spin on their own. This becomes a problem when chopping away from the table, where you need to create your own backspin rather than just reverse incoming spin.

So, if you play away from the table, itâ€s best to use sponged pips to allow you to create spin on your own.

If your opponent puts heavy topspin on the ball and you chop the ball with sponged long pips, your opponent will receive more backspin than the topspin they initially put, if you play your shot right.

Choosing Your Sponge Thickness

But just how much sponge should you use? It depends on your level and preferences.

0.5mm is usually the thinnest sponge available, and itâ€s a great sponge thickness for many scenarios.

I recommend 0.5mm if youâ€re learning to use long pips, or if youâ€re a chopper that relies on consistency rather than spin.

0.5mm is the thickness thatâ€ll give you the most control, so if you want to return as many balls as possible, 0.5mm will give you the best chance at that.

1mm could already be considered a thick sponge when it comes to long pips.

This thickness will be harder to control but youâ€ll be able to put a bit more spin on your chops.

And, if youâ€re very confident in your skills, youâ€re an advanced player with great feeling and you want as much backspin as possible, you can go even thicker than 1mm.

Antispin

Butterfly Super Anti
Source: Butterfly

You can think of antispin as the opposite of inverted, especially with the new frictionless antis like Dr. Neubauer ABS and all its variants.

Dr. Neubauer ABS has whatâ€s called a “dampening spongeâ€, so more sponge equals less speed and more control.

For antispin rubbers that have a dampening sponge, more sponge will equal more control but less spin reversal.

So, if you play close to the table and you want the utmost spin reversal, you should go for thinner sponges, but theyâ€ll be harder to control.

If you want more control, you can go for thicker sponges, but youâ€ll have less spin reversal.

While this behavior is typical for most anti rubbers, grippier variants can enable attacking play when paired with thicker sponges.

Choosing Your Ideal Sponge Thickness

After examining how sponge thickness affects each rubber type, here are the key principles to guide your choice:

• Inverted Rubbers: Think of sponge thickness as a trampoline that needs to match your power. The harder you hit, the thicker you can go. Most offensive players will benefit from MAX (2.2-2.5mm), while control players can opt for 1.8-2.0mm. When in doubt, go thicker on your forehand side.
• Short Pips: Mirror the inverted principle for attacking players (2.0mm+), but consider thinner sponges (1.5-1.8mm) for blocking and control. OX remains a valid choice for classic hardbat play.
• Long Pips: Close to table players should choose OX for maximum spin reversal. Choppers should consider:
  • 0.5mm for learning or consistency-focused play
  • 1.0mm for increased spin generation
  • 1.0mm+ for advanced players seeking maximum spin
• Anti: Thinner sponges maximize spin reversal but sacrifice control, while thicker sponges offer more control but less reversal. Consider your playing distance and style when choosing.

Remember: There’s no universal “best” thickness—it all depends on your playing style, skill level, and goals. When in doubt, most players should err on the side of slightly thicker sponges, as they provide more room for technical growth. You can always adapt your technique to a thicker sponge, but a too-thin sponge might limit your development.

Finally, don’t be afraid to experiment. Many players keep multiple sponge thicknesses of their favorite rubber to use in different situations or as they develop their game.

Alvaroâ€s a qualified ITTF Level 1 Coach who’s been playing Table Tennis since he was 15 and is now ranked within the top 50 in his native Argentina. He loves to compete in provincial tournaments and is always looking for ways to improve. Alvaro made his favorite memories with a racket in hand, and he joined the RacketInsight team to share his passion with other players!

Blade: Butterfly Fan Zhendong ALC | Forehand: Butterfly Dignics 09c | Backhand: Butterfly Tenergy 19
Playstyle: The Controller

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